Cooling system help
#41
05-05-2018, 03:43 PM
Super Moderator
I'm still suspicious of the OEM 03 one piece fan clutch or poor coolant flow. It could be weak and not engaging at the proper RPM. Also that return line from the radiator would not cause this, if it had any air in it at all it's being push straight to the coolant reservoir.
Only time I've ever seen bad OEM 195F T-Stat's was on D2's that ran Dexcool and had air getting into the system. They'd eventually stick closed and cause overheating issues. Boiling the T-Stat will answer any questions of it being faulty in a heartbeat. I haven't had a single 180F unit go on the fritz yet with green coolant.
Only time I've ever seen bad OEM 195F T-Stat's was on D2's that ran Dexcool and had air getting into the system. They'd eventually stick closed and cause overheating issues. Boiling the T-Stat will answer any questions of it being faulty in a heartbeat. I haven't had a single 180F unit go on the fritz yet with green coolant.
#42
05-05-2018, 03:56 PM
#43
05-05-2018, 03:58 PM
Pro Wrench
It really sounds to me as if something is restricting the coolant flow, hence, the recommendation to bypass the heater core. I know you flushed the system and both hoses are hot. I think a thermal gun is next in line to check each hose and radiator.
#44
05-05-2018, 04:18 PM
I have a thermometer gun. I will double check the heater core but isn't the heater core just parallel to the system ?? Even if I blocked one hose why would it impede the flow around the engine and radiator
if it was clogged or reduced flow wouldn't that increase flow in other areas of the system
if it was clogged or reduced flow wouldn't that increase flow in other areas of the system
#45
05-05-2018, 06:26 PM
Super Moderator
To the beginner a LR Heart Valve looking thermostat might seem all high tech, but tear one open & it’s like any old thermostat inside. This is a Motorad 180F unit that I quickly removed from the 500.00 wonder I’m tinkering with.
I dumped it into a pot and sat it on the stove. It opened at about 187F vs 180F but it did open/close many times with no faults. I replaced it as soon as I saw the name Motorad as they have a horrible reputation for failing. I was impressed that this older unit was actually made in Germany.
I think you have a coolant flow problem. I’d honestly think about a 50.00-75.00 ebay radiator, and possibly a new water pump. If it’s the OEM radiator still in there it had a good long life. Or on the cheap side seal off the lower outlet, dump some CLR into that radiator, then top off with some water & let it sit (works best out of the D2 as you can shake it), then flush it out with water & see what deposits come out.
Last edited by Best4x4; 05-05-2018 at 06:31 PM.
#46
05-05-2018, 08:10 PM
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shanechevelle (05-08-2018)
#50
05-06-2018, 02:50 AM
Recovery Vehicle
Parked and idling, put a big fan in front of your grill to see if extra air keeps the temp down.
If yes, then you have a bad fan clutch?
If no, then you have a bad water pump, I'd think.