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A Cooling venture with graphs.. No Magic results like most
*Pasting a from other threads to make things read more linear*
TLDR; I can't seem to get the magical "Now I'm running 170F, 190F max coolant temps" after several major mods. Trying to be methodical and take a analytical approach to finding what the culprit is with lots of graphs.
To Start with I have an aftermarket GPracing all aluminum radiator, Silicone Coolant hoses, 180F Soft Spring Gray thermostat, factory(?) water pump/clutch/fan
Before(Control):
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e3/#post829747
Coolant temp vs speed graphs. Went for a drive yesterday evening and this morning, Same route [23.3mi, 248-436ft elevation, average speed 33mph, max speed 60mph, 44mins], Outside temp about 85-88F. Coolant temps look normal, rising when slower/stopped and dropping back down when I speed up. Looking to see how much difference there will be with the electric fans.
Some before coolant temp vs speed graphs. Went for a drive yesterday evening and this morning, Same route [23.3mi, 248-436ft elevation, average speed 33mph, max speed 60mph, 44mins], Outside temp about 85-88F. Coolant temps look normal, rising when slower/stopped and dropping back down when I speed up. Looking to see how much difference there will be with the electric fans.
Not sure what's going on with this? I checked the DCC controller output on pin 13 and it was not set to set to 2.63v for a 180F fan so I made the appropriate adjustments. While parked/idling I kept an eye on Torque Pro and the fans seemed to ramp up and off keeping Coolant temp at 197-198F. Did some fiddling with adjusting the controller set temp and determined nothing was helping bring it lower so I set it back to 2.60v(178F? thermostat) Outside temps today were around 88-90F, same trip as measured before.
I was expecting lower temps and more stable than this.. I'm going to reach out to DCC and provide these graphs after I can do another run from Cold start tomorrow.
Ambient Temp 85-90
Sent DCC an email a few mins ago and got a quick response back. Indeed it sounds like my 180F soft spring thermostat is more likely 195F as some on the forum have found with theirs. I'm waiting on a gasket for my Extinct Inline thermostat mod and then I imagine I'll be running on "ice cube juice" as VGG says!
Notice he doesn't seem to know LR stuff, which is cool I just thought it was funny.
Originally Posted by "DCC"
You don't have a 180 degree thermostat. Under a light load at 50mph, even at 90F, the thermostat will be essentially closed. With 50 mph wind through the radiator, you have far more cooling than you need and far more airflow than the fans themselves can provide. The cycling that you see is caused from the thermostat opening and closing.
I don't know who makes a "soft spring" thermostat, but it's clearly not functioning as a 180 degree thermostat, it's more likely a 195 degree thermostat although it's functioning at approximately 197F. Buy either an OEM or a Stant thermostat and make sure that there is no air in the system.
Just got done with my install, topped off while running, revved to 2k rpm, went for a test drive and she stayed at 199 for most of the drive but crept up to 208 after going up a Long Hill. Parked it at home and left the hood open to cool off walked back by and saw this.
I think I got some air out, at least I saw air bubbles in the tank. Went for a ride and it didn't get as hot granted it's 10-15F cooler ambient today. It's still cooling off after my ride but it's been parked for at least 2 hours and it's not as flat as it was the last time.
New cap showed up yesterday but I wanted to wait until it cooled off completely to record another ride. Running the old cap (Britpart PCD000070 sold by Proper Spec on Amazon Feb 2019) 1/4 turn loose kept the upper hose full of coolant and not sucking flat when parked/cooled off. The new cap I just ordered is a Gates 31331, measuring from the flat seal to the orings is shorter than the Britpart one. The orings being higher up would act similar to having the cap loosened off? I wonder which one is the correct measurement? I guess my next move is to remove the thermostat and run it to get a baseline temp to see if something else is wrong... I'm just not getting the magical temp reduction that everyone else seems to be getting.
For some comparisons:
Clutch fan, 180F soft spring Factory thermostat
Ford Fusion E-Fan, Factory Thermostat
Ford Fusion E-Fan, Inline mod, Old Britpart cap loosened 1/4 turn
Temps do look a bit high. Looks like your speed is up and down a lot. See if you can get a long steady state 70mph highway run. Also remember 100 degrees over ambient is all the Disco radiator can achieve with the AC on.
It looks like this cooling system needs more fan than I expected, and I didn't fully understand what the AC option on the DCC controller did. An email exchange with the manufacturer cleared it up and I connected it to enable the radiator fans to come on at a higher speed when the factory AC/Aux fan is engaged. The results were as Richard was getting at, needing a more aggressive fan profile. Graph is the same local route as previous graphs.
Here's the results of a 14mi interstate run and then the cool down back to home, the OBD system in these vehicles is something else.. Most of the interstate section was fairly constant 68-72 (my cruise doesn't work) except for a bit of traffic through a construction zone. Ambient temps read 90-95F
I'm not sure how accurate this temp gun actually is, and how much insulating the tape(the metal was giving all kinds of reflective readings) is doing, but it's showing a 20F drop across the radiator.
Couple thoughts/questions about your issues Sandman...
Is all the shrouding that normally goes around the sides and and on top of the radiator just removed so you can tinker, or do you not use anything to help funnel the air into the radiator? I was always told it was pretty important, otherwise air will just go around the radiator, not thru it. Air following the path of least resistance kinda thing...
Is that 20degree drop across the radiator with, or without the fans running?
All the pieces infront of the condenser are in place. The ones beside and above the radiator I have not cut to fit back in place with the aftermarket radiator. I didn't want to cut up the top one if the E-fan didn't work out. The radiator/condenser/oil coolers are clean.
20F drop across the radiator was at idle with the fans running and coolant temp 185
I think I'll try to find some rubber(inner tube?) to mock up some shrouds
07-19-2022 | 08:32 PM
A Cooling venture with graphs.. No Magic results like most
