A member asked me what sort of tool I had made to remove the crank bolt when I replaced the front seal and some other things. Here are some pictures. I had it made for about 20 bucks at the first metal shop I drove past.

Here's my spare parts engine's crank pulley; not the two holes and the big bolt head:



After I did my lift it was too short, and the idea is that it braces against the ground underneath the rover. If memory serves I had to use a cheater pipe on the end of it to make it hit the ground after the lift.











You want to have some sacrificial bolts to use instead of your originals... they do get bent a little (unless your nut is loose).

It is about as basic as you can get. It would be better and not ruin bolts if it dipped into the pulley (so it laid flush against the bolt holes on the pulley instead of on the front of the pulley), but for 20 bucks it is as good as it can be.

Best,

Charlie V

 

Nice tool though I think it really only helps when putting it back on.

Most people I know put a socket on and rest a breaker bar against the frame or on the ground and tap the starter. breaks that nut loose with 0 effort.

 

impact socket.
Impact air gun in removal direction.
Will come right off.

But the tool is definitely pro.

 

Pure genius. Seriously. I like.

 

To remove the crankshaft nut, is it clock-wise or counter-wise to loosen the nut?

 

If you used spacers between the pulley and tool, and torqued the holder bolts down to 15ft.lb or so, you'd avoid bent bolts.

Good job on the tool.

 

Wow. I don't recall. I don't remember it being counter normal rotation but I am not sure. I did it twice... I'm sorry I just don't remember.

 

That's a good suggestion; thanks. Next time I have to use it I am going to get some gas pipe and cut it to size.

Not looking at it right now, it seems like the distance from the tool to the face of the pulley is about an inch. When I had it made, I asked them to bend it so that it would fit in the pulley, flush against the face, but the little shop I went to didn't have that capability. That would be even better.

 

I did it 2 days ago. It's clock-wise to tight and Counter-clock-wise to loosen. I did the "bump the engine" method. Worked like a Charm...
I'm where i need to remove the Plastic SEAL. I'm not sure if i need a special tool.. I tried using my screw driver but i gave up... any thoughts?

 

I couldn't get a screw driver in there well but if you use a flat prybar (like one you'd remove nails with) and put it in there sideways so the seal goes into the notch it works pretty well.