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Cruise control not working

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Old Sep 9, 2018 | 01:12 PM
  #21  
Best4x4's Avatar
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The bladder is a 2 second test, remove the vacuum line from the cruise control pump, stick it on your lips and suck. If the bladder pulls in and stays = it's good, if you suck and it never pulls in all the way and holds = it has a pin hole leak in it somewhere.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2018 | 03:21 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Best4x4
The bladder is a 2 second test, remove the vacuum line from the cruise control pump, stick it on your lips and suck. If the bladder pulls in and stays = it's good, if you suck and it never pulls in all the way and holds = it has a pin hole leak in it somewhere.
I think I’m just scared to spend the $100 for a new one.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2018 | 08:17 PM
  #23  
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Get a used one from Abran or Paul on here, or find one at a junk yard. 95-02 P38, 94-04 D1/D2 use the same part.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 05:33 AM
  #24  
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Are there any photos / videos of the pump, hose, bladder location?

if I need to check the wiring and connections inside the steering wheel; will all of the functions remain normal while the airbag is removed?

thanks

Doc
 
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 08:43 AM
  #25  
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Alright so the actuator seems to function fine. I can pull suction on it, and it stays as long as I can hold it.

Plugged in the Nanocom again and I’m still showing the Brake as On, and Cruise as Disabled. I’ve got some sort of electrical issue here I believe, so time to start chasing impedance in the brake system I suppose. Unfortunately I’m going away for work for a few weeks tomorrow and won’t have the Rover with me.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 08:46 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ReconDoc83
Are there any photos / videos of the pump, hose, bladder location?

if I need to check the wiring and connections inside the steering wheel; will all of the functions remain normal while the airbag is removed?

thanks

Doc
Doc,

The pump and actuator should be directly behind the coolant overflow tank. Also, if you follow the throttle cables from the throttle body, one goes to the cruise actuator and one goes to the pedal.

From my understanding, if your clock spring (cassette I think is what LR calls it) is bad, you shouldn’t have a horn or functioning radio buttons.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2018 | 10:07 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by attworth


Doc,

The pump and actuator should be directly behind the coolant overflow tank. Also, if you follow the throttle cables from the throttle body, one goes to the cruise actuator and one goes to the pedal.

From my understanding, if your clock spring (cassette I think is what LR calls it) is bad, you shouldn’t have a horn or functioning radio buttons.
well my horn works; I have an aftermarket radio so the steering wheel buttons do not work (but I’m going to remedy that).

thanks for the location info👍🏻

Doc
 
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Old Sep 12, 2018 | 06:45 AM
  #28  
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It is possible top remove the cruise vacuum unit as a single piece and open it up. You can then apply 12v to two of the terminals in the connection block to check that the motor works. After that, you can reassemble and apply power to the same two terminals to check for suction. That will help to eliminate the vacuum unit as the cause of the fault.

And just to be certain -- it's happened before -- you're pulling the switch on the steering wheel towards you, right?
 
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