Poking around underneath my D1 this weekendI noticed the rubber is cracked on the flex coupling. I haven't felt any particular indications that it's gone bad, but then again - I'm not entirely sure what to look for, either. Conventional wisdom says replace it - which I'm planning to do in short order - but when these things go, what happens? Do they usuallly slowly break down/wear out, or is it catastrophic?

In replacing it, I found one site w/ a straight-through rear drive shaft that eliminates the flex coupling altogether, replacing it with a conventional U-joint - has anyone done this, and are the merits worth the additional ~$300 vs. the $90 coupling?

If I decide to just keep the coupling (most likely) - does anyone recommend using LokTite (red? blue?) or something else, and does anyone know the torque settings?

Thanks in advance!
Jake

 

Unfortunatley when these things go they go really bad. When it goes your drive shaft will start flailing arround untill it or something else breaks off, so definatley not a good thing to have happen-costing prices that end in many 000's. Fix it the first chance you can and save your bank account. For my two cents I would reccomend blue lock tite, but as far as torque specs I have no clue, do a little research or you can always call the dealership's maintanance dept and the service manager would be happy to help you.

Good luck!

 

FLEXIBLE COUPLING
NOTE: Flexible coupling should only be
removed if a new coupling is to be fitted.
Remove
1. Remove rear propeller shaft. See Rear
Propeller Shaft.
2. Remove nuts and bolts securing flexible
coupling to propeller shaft.
Refit
3. Reverse removal procedure. Fit nuts and bolts.
Tighten to 78 Nm.

I have a shaft with full U-joints. I just feel better not having the rubber coupling there...

 

If you go to Rover connection you can get a great price on a factory rotoflex, try and stay away from aftermarket ones, their wear rate is not good.
As for them failing, they will give you more warning then a U-Joint and do just as much damage so replace yours now.
Mike

 

Thanks guys! As always - y'all rock [sm=icon_rock.gif]

 

I replaced my drive line.
I never could understand a rubber U-joint.
The part thats bad is you need a Land Rover tool to pull
the center part off the diff to get to the nut that holds the
flex coupling on the diff.
I took mine Rovers North in Dallas and a few hundred bucks and
a hour and half and I was done.