I seem to need a new CV joint, as mine is clicking on tight turns.

1. There seem to be a number of options:
- new shaft from Rock Auto (aftermarket)
- new shaft from UK (also aftermarket but 2 to 3 times RA’s price)
- new shaft from Lucky 8 (doesn’t indicate whether it’s aftermarket, 4x RA’s price)
- new CV joint and boot from UK (aftermarket and 1/2 the price of RA’s axle shaft)
- used shaft or CV joint (I haven’t checked pricing)
Any advice on which way to go would be appreciated.

2. What other parts do I need to replace it? Presumably a CV shaft seal. What about a hub nut?

Thanks
Harv

 

Most larger cities have Driveshaft rebuilders locally that often charge less, and use better parts than online retailers. A quick Google search for "driveshaft rebuilder British Columbia Canada", shows 4-5 local shops. Can't tell ya if any of them are worthwhile or trustworthy, but I'd guess at least one of them might be? Just another option, online retail is often good too.....Good Luck

 

Driveshaft is quite different than CV shaft, not sure most shops can handle the very large D2 Cv shaft. As far as recommendations, not sure there is much advantage to buying anything other than the cheapest, almost all are probably made in the same factory at this point except maybe OEM. OEM one routinely last over 250k - if you really like OEM consider used from a breaker - if you get one with around 100k on it you likely have 100k+ left in it. Shaft seal would be good to have but unless it is leaking you might not want to mess with it. Depending on mileage you might consider replacing the hub while you are there, they are relative cheap. Of course brake pads are always good to have on hand, you might consider ball joint boots if yours are torn as most are. The ball joints themselves also typically last over 250k but not the boots.

 

Thanks for that. I could check out a local driveshaft shop. I suspected that they wouldn’t have LR specific parts, but the CV joint might be a more general part.

 

Thanks Extinct. I’m guessing that a CV isn’t difficult to replace on the shaft?
With your suggestion that the quality probably isn’t much different, I’ll probably go with a new complete shaft assembly from Rock Auto.

 

Its pretty easy, in my case I just pulled it apart! But I did have to deal with leaky axle seals so double check them.

 

Thanks rikkd

 

Ok, crisis averted. Thanks for your answers. I was expecting the worst, but this morning I jacked the front end to determine which CV shaft I needed. I found the axle breather hose somehow had worked loose and was rubbing on my tire at full lock, making the noise that I was sure was a bad CV.