Here is a different other idea. Don't mess with the right side head. But maybe too late at this point if bolts have been loosened already. Are you planning to install new rings and bearings?

Engine certainly could use some internal cleaning to remove sludge and varnish. Many oil/chemical products on the market can accomplish this. I am trying Valvoline Restore & Protect, but it works slowly over a long time (4 OCIs).

 

I am guessing too late now.

 

I have a breaker bar plus a pipe that is several feet long, as pointed out, I need to make sure it does not slip off the bolt. I would suggest that I am putting nearly 800-100 ft lbs of force on it. I broke one socket already. I think my best bet is heat and a serious impact wrench. My friend has an old Bosch electric one that unlikely anything I have seen, probably weights 40 lbs. I was doing the rear sway bars and no impact wrench or breaker bars could remove the bolts into the frame. This wrench did it with no effort. I just need to track it down.
I am down to the last 2 head bolts. I left the others in to minimize the twist on the head while fighting these two.

This has me seriously considering removing the SAI, the job is 3 hours easier with out it.

 

I've never seen one that tight.

The sockets I use are harbor freight impact sockets. I use a combination of deep and shallow based on clearance needs.

These guys have been used commercial for about 20 years. I've not yet broken one, knock on wood. Not even on the 1 inch drive impact.

 

Heating the block would help, but how are you going to get heat that far down? I think heating the head will make matters worse as the head will expand and make the bolt even tighter. I hope you get it broken free soon. Hopefully you won’t need to resort to drilling the bolt heads off. That would be a daunting task, perhaps needing special drills and drill bits.

 

I broke 3 sockets on a driver's side headbolt once, each time I thought I cracked it loose only to find it still tight and a split in the socket. Jacking the back of the trans is likely necessary to get the purchase you'll need, I'd suggest an impact socket and a breaker bar one more time once you get the trans jacked up. I'm not a fan of impact guns on head bolts if avoidable. If not, then get your buddy's impact on it.

Regarding the SAI, I've long though about cutting the triangular aluminum brackets that bolt to the intake mani so the SAI tubes can stay in place when removing the valve covers. Then fashioning some kind of plate to bolt them back together, seems like a lot of work though. I'm no fan of the SAI but I couldn't live with the SES light.

 

Finally got them loose, two people, 5 ft of leverage. Broke the universal joint on one impact socket. I think the extra week of soaking and multiple rounds with impact probably helped a bit.
RAVE has the installation torque at 15ft lbs plus the 2 90 turns. I can't imagine that gets me to similar tightness. We shall see I guess.
Everything is mostly clean will give it all a good powerwash before it goes back together. I hope I did not break too much of the plastic hoses. Or have SAI leaks. I have the coil pack mover coming, hopefully it shows in the next day or so.

 

I replaced SAI tubing with vinyl hose and plastic fittings, works fine. You can see in the pics of my BAT trucks.

 

Almost sounds like there was high strength thread lock on there. Estimate 500 - 1000 ft-lb to break free. Amazing the bolt head didn't snap off. Good for you prevailing over it.

 

Super fun.
The head gaskets do not have a top listed, I assume the smooth side faces the block and the little bits of rubber side face the cylinder head? There was no information in the package.