Dealing with door lock problems - a how to
#1
11-16-2009, 02:51 PM
Dealing with door lock problems - a how to
Ok,
I have a newly purchased 99DII. Great truck, gets me laid, etc, etc. However, like a rover, she's not without problems.
One of the most disturbing was this "super-lock" crap that Rover has put on there. That, coupled with my turn signals crapping out randomly, made her a hazard to drive.
So, after some research, I found that the IDM/Interior Fuse box could be a likely culprit, and vowed to deal with that bastard.
So, here it is:
THE PROBLEM: Rover rear windows, turn signals, and door locks unresponsive during driving.
DIAGNOSTICS RUN: Tested all Fuses associated with said systems. Switches in good working order, seemed to be total lack of power to systems when inoperable.
Solution - SEARCH on this forum, and found old thread to deal with Door Locking issue - which happened to me the other night. No doors would open except for driver door with manual key actions.
FIX: Expose IDM/Passenger fuse block. It is located where your left knee hits the dash, right behind the panel. Turn the two plastic flathead retainer screw 90 degrees, and the hinged panel will swing down.
The IDM/FUSE block is a grey box, covered in Fuses. To detach it, first unplug the two harnesses on the front side. I use a flathead to push the clip in, and then another to GENTLEY pry them out.
When those two are hanging loose, there is a nut securing the top portion of the IDM/Fuseblock, a 10MM socket will remove this.
The bottom part of the IDM is secured to the car with a simple plastic tab, which will come out easily by pivoting the top part of the IDM towards the driver seat, and then lifting.
With the IDM loose, I removed the foam block from under the steering column to make some more room. Using the same GENTLE touch as you would your prom date, remove all the wiring harnesses from the back of the IDM, noting where they went in. (They are also numbered, for those of you who would skip this step).
With all harnesses out, the IDM will come free, and you will be holding a grey box, fuses and relays all over one side, and a total mystery to me at first.
The issue with these IDM's is that they can corrode on the interior printed circuit boards, causing all sorts of headaches with your door locks, turn lamps, and any other functions this little SOB controls.
The next step to check this out is to get the casing open. It is secured with a series of tabs that are, frankly, a gigantic pain in the @$$ to get open. I solved the problem with a series of wooden wedges, which I cut very carefully and then inserted around the perimeter of the junction at each tab.
After much cursing at the blithering idiot who designed this case, I got it open, and exposed the printed green circuit board on the back of the IDM.
At this point, it will be screamingly obvious as to what is wrong. If water/moisture has entered this box (mine had), there will be foamy green corrosion scum around the circuits, (usually concentrated in one area,) and the unit needs to be replaced.
I cleaned mine out with GENTLE compressed air (45psi MAX) and a ball point pen between the circuits (the ball fits right in there, and no ink spills due to slick surface) and then reinstalled. Clip the back harnesses in, bolt it in, and clip the front two on. Then fired her up with breath held, fingers, toes and unmentionables crossed.....aaaaaand...
ALL of my little "electrical gremlins" are gone. The turn signals work, the rear windows work, the door locks are as good as new, the alarm sounds, and the intermittent wipers work (they didn't before). For the price, I'm still going to install the new unit when it shows, but its a quick fix for the time being.
To get the part, call Will Tillery @ roverguy.com, and order a new one. Super nice guy, shipped mine out the same day I paypal'd him. Used part, but $100 shipped and 1 year warranty, I'm happy.
I'll update this post when I get it in and let everyone know. I took pictures, but cannot, at this moment, get them to load. Must be the "attack" that occurred.
I have a newly purchased 99DII. Great truck, gets me laid, etc, etc. However, like a rover, she's not without problems.
One of the most disturbing was this "super-lock" crap that Rover has put on there. That, coupled with my turn signals crapping out randomly, made her a hazard to drive.
So, after some research, I found that the IDM/Interior Fuse box could be a likely culprit, and vowed to deal with that bastard.
So, here it is:
THE PROBLEM: Rover rear windows, turn signals, and door locks unresponsive during driving.
DIAGNOSTICS RUN: Tested all Fuses associated with said systems. Switches in good working order, seemed to be total lack of power to systems when inoperable.
Solution - SEARCH on this forum, and found old thread to deal with Door Locking issue - which happened to me the other night. No doors would open except for driver door with manual key actions.
FIX: Expose IDM/Passenger fuse block. It is located where your left knee hits the dash, right behind the panel. Turn the two plastic flathead retainer screw 90 degrees, and the hinged panel will swing down.
The IDM/FUSE block is a grey box, covered in Fuses. To detach it, first unplug the two harnesses on the front side. I use a flathead to push the clip in, and then another to GENTLEY pry them out.
When those two are hanging loose, there is a nut securing the top portion of the IDM/Fuseblock, a 10MM socket will remove this.
The bottom part of the IDM is secured to the car with a simple plastic tab, which will come out easily by pivoting the top part of the IDM towards the driver seat, and then lifting.
With the IDM loose, I removed the foam block from under the steering column to make some more room. Using the same GENTLE touch as you would your prom date, remove all the wiring harnesses from the back of the IDM, noting where they went in. (They are also numbered, for those of you who would skip this step).
With all harnesses out, the IDM will come free, and you will be holding a grey box, fuses and relays all over one side, and a total mystery to me at first.
The issue with these IDM's is that they can corrode on the interior printed circuit boards, causing all sorts of headaches with your door locks, turn lamps, and any other functions this little SOB controls.
The next step to check this out is to get the casing open. It is secured with a series of tabs that are, frankly, a gigantic pain in the @$$ to get open. I solved the problem with a series of wooden wedges, which I cut very carefully and then inserted around the perimeter of the junction at each tab.
After much cursing at the blithering idiot who designed this case, I got it open, and exposed the printed green circuit board on the back of the IDM.
At this point, it will be screamingly obvious as to what is wrong. If water/moisture has entered this box (mine had), there will be foamy green corrosion scum around the circuits, (usually concentrated in one area,) and the unit needs to be replaced.
I cleaned mine out with GENTLE compressed air (45psi MAX) and a ball point pen between the circuits (the ball fits right in there, and no ink spills due to slick surface) and then reinstalled. Clip the back harnesses in, bolt it in, and clip the front two on. Then fired her up with breath held, fingers, toes and unmentionables crossed.....aaaaaand...
ALL of my little "electrical gremlins" are gone. The turn signals work, the rear windows work, the door locks are as good as new, the alarm sounds, and the intermittent wipers work (they didn't before). For the price, I'm still going to install the new unit when it shows, but its a quick fix for the time being.
To get the part, call Will Tillery @ roverguy.com, and order a new one. Super nice guy, shipped mine out the same day I paypal'd him. Used part, but $100 shipped and 1 year warranty, I'm happy.
I'll update this post when I get it in and let everyone know. I took pictures, but cannot, at this moment, get them to load. Must be the "attack" that occurred.
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Andy23 (06-26-2022)
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