Did pads/rotors on my '03 D2 today. Easy as pie. I used the lockheed kit from atlantic british which cost less than$300 for everything. Shop supplies and a couple of tools I didn't have ran another $75(I actually discarded my jack stands years ago thinking I'd not be working on cars again -- then I bought a used rover ).

Here's a couple of things they don't seem to mention in the manuals:

The bolts that hold the calipers have thread lock on them. Rap the rachet handle with a rubber hammer and they will losen right up.

The hub speed sensor wires in the rear have to be unclipped from the brake hose to move the caliper out of the way. The hub speed sensor wires in the front have to be removed from the two retaining brackets nearest the caliper in order to remove one of the bolts that retain the caliper bracket. The hub speed sensors can't be replaced without replacing the entire hub so be gentle with those wires! (and don't forget to reclip them before re-installing the wheels).

Make sure you applyan anti-seize compound on the hubs and all aroundthe central boss that centers the rotors, before installing the new rotors. Even with the anti-seize that the factory put on, the rotorsdidn't exactly pop right off. If there were no anti-seize, it no doubt would have been a real pita to get them off (even with the factory applied anti-seize, I had to use a rubber mallet on three of them and a small sledge to get the last one to pop off).

Use one of the old brake pads under an ordinary C clamp to retract the caliper pistons.

Last but not least, as obvious as this may seem (it wasn't to me until I looked at what I was doing), it is much easier to install the pads in the caliper bracket and then install the caliper than to install the pads in the caliper and then trying to install the caliper. A bit of a brain fart on my part.

I used a silicone caliper lube to lube the areas where the pads touch the calipers and around the piston boots to keep the boots supple. The stuff has the consistency of thick peanut butter.

Another thing that saved a little time, buy a box of nitrile gloves. This way, when you need your hands clean, like to handle or touch the rotors once you've cleaned them, you can just put on a fresh pair of gloves and you won't have to clean the rotors all over again.

After buttoning everything up and a couple gentle test stops, I performed a full test drive and gotno ABS lights and no squeaks. I saved roughly a grand over what it would have cost at the dealer. Total time was about 3 hours (and this was with working pretty slowly and methodically as I haven't done a brake job in many years and have never worked on a rover before).

Cheers.

 

I didn't see if you had bled your brakes, if not you still should. If you do this you will have a firmer pedal, less brake fade and no acid build up to eat away at your seals.
Mike

 

I definitely will take your advice. I have to dig out my old pressure bleeder as I generally work alone.

I've seen advertisements for the Castrol LMA brake fluid which meets DOT 4 specifications. Is this something worthwhile or would you recommend another brand?

Thanks for your help,

-Keith