Thanks, will give it a another good look into this weekend and report back

I was thinking of adding another smaller electric fan (7"or8") on to the condenser next to the existing one, anyone tried this before and would this help?

 

Report back time

After checking the air con freon was about 30% low so top this up and as you can see the rad/condenser pretty clean but i' did gave it a good hose down again anyway. In the end i did put in a 8" fan next (just about) to the existing condenser fan with extra relay and fuse box. this seem to work fine with just a bit more noise. So from 215F at stand still stop heavy traffic it went down to around 204F-206F and at cruising it stayed around 188F-197F. No smell of the air con/coolant fluid what so ever and the air con was nice and cold and no sticky feeling to it. Next on the plan is to install 180F Tstat which should be in the post...

What is the Normal tempreture for Dis 2 V8 pls, moving traffic 188F-195F and heavy traffic 197-215F?

Would a TD5 Fan work on V8 engine pls?

 

The fan came on as soon as the air con is switch on

 

If the extra fan makes that much difference, perhaps the effective size of the radiator surfaces has been reduced by sludge. You can measure across the fins top to bottom, truck warmed up, engine off. More than 10F spread indicates that lower rows are cooler because of low or no flow of coolant. If this builds up high enough, the air flow to face of fan clutch is also cooled off and that clutch won't re-engage to full power in slow traffic like it should.

Also, from the pix, don't look now but your dash cluster and steering wheel are on the wrong side of the truck.

 

Thanks, i did flush the rad couple of months ago when one of the hose clips got loosen.

btw, I'm 9285.2 Miles away from where you are, dash cluster and steering is considered on the right side!

 

A rad flush takes away some of what is in there. Consider this pix. If scale/sludge/Dexcool mud (a type of coolant that becomes aggresive when contaminated) build up, a considerable portion of the radiator is "out of service". At freeway speeds you may still get cooling, but when slow the warming goes higher than it should.

The external non destructive performance test is measure the temps on the fins, top to bottom, truck hot, engine off. If lower rows are cooler by 10F you have significant blockage. The D2 radiator is a slim one row affair, rod out not practical due to the brittle plastic side tanks.

The scale buildup is speeded up by using tap water or the very worst, well water, which is usually mineral rich. Now well water tastes great, and makes fine whiskey in Lynchburg, TN. But radiators do much better on distilled water and coolant, or premixed coolant.

Another thing to consider would be if the tiny holes in the top disk of the thermostat were clogged with sludge or material that was floating around in the coolant. That would in effect change how fast the thermostat operated. A 180F stat is available that cuts temps across the board.

 

Thank you for the explanation, Will check and get back on this. If this the case how do I flush the sludge out totally?

 

Do they put the engine in the back? Where do people sit? Does the truck run backwards? So many questions...

 

55555

 

Today the temp did not get to 200F in morning traffic, it around 193-198F. Very happy so far...

roll on weekend so that i could have a good look at the rad...