You need to reverse flush and flush and reverse flush and so on to try to get the blockage thsts in there out use a garden hose not your mouth.

 

Hey thank you, I will use the "reverse flush and flush and reverse flush and so on" method tomorrow. I did flush every thing with the garden hose prior to putting in new coolant in. I then blew out the tap water with low air pressure and proceeded to fill and bleed just as I have read is the correct way. But doing a flush again is not a big deal. I will report back what I find. Thanks again lr2001

 

No problem buddy, taking the heater core out is not for beginners but you could un do the hoses there and flush one direction and the the other. Now the radiator is alot easier to remove and you probably would get better results of flushing out the blockage if you were able to turn and rotate as you flush. I would take the thermostat out and inspect it as well again to be sure. I am just putting in my 2 cents here but if you had some
Sludge or deposits in your cooling system when you flushed it the first time it could have lodged somewhere where the flow is more restricted ( smaller channels) crevices ect... and it would restrict water flow at idle then when you increase rpms you force more flow of hot coolant threw restricted system and you get burst of heat. And when you return to idle you loose heat because the flow of coolant decreases drastically due to blocked arteries.

 

see https://landroverforums.com/forum/at...025_105723-pdf for pix of a cheap hose adapter to make it easier.

 

I have combustion gases in the coolant and the heater hoses are expanding as the combustion gases build up and pressurize the system. Guess it is time for a BLOCK!

 

Probably head gaskets only.
Why do you think the block is cracked?

Mine did the same thing.
Replaced head gaskets - problem over.
I have a 2001.

 

the head gaskets are less than a week old

 

So perhaps they were not done properly? Even a master mechanic muffs it sometimes. And then there is always KSeal, the "what have you got to loose" product. If you go the route of tearing down again to get at the head gaskets you'll be at a point for a block pressure test. Cracked head? Machine shop could test for that when you had them skimmed. No skim? Maybe they are warped, the spec is .002 inch, your printer paper is .0038 inch thick.

 

I agree you could have the shop perform a pressure test to check for cracks and its possible that they were milled wrong. Or done wrong in The first place.

 

I may have done the gasket install wrong. I followed every step in the RAVE, I had the heads pressure tested, milled, valves ground and new valve seals installed. I used all new parts and so my thinking is to no tear the heads back off inspect again. Am I crazy for thinking I have a cracked block or slipped sleeve? I am trying to find a pressure test kit that I can do myself in my area. But I am finding that the money I am throwing at another head job and gaskets may be better spent on a known good running motor to swap in. Complete running motors are 750 to 950 in my area and the head work and parts cost me around 600 bucks so far.