What year is your truck? And no not crazy we don't know how hot the temp was and how long it was overheated. Do you?

 

. Did you have this heat issue before you did the work or did it start afterwards

 

I don't know how hot it got, I bought it with the owner stating the Dealer that replaced the water pump said " it needed head gaskets" The water pump went and it got hot is what I was told. It ran and had a slight miss and no tick. The owner said it heated up again after the water pump replacement and he parked it. It had no water in the oil and still does not. It runs great after I replaced the gaskets and the miss is gone. I started it today with the coolant cap off, after 2 to 3 mins of warm up the coolant starts to bubble out and if I slowly increase the rpm the water starts pumping out of the bottle.

 

Okay but the heating issue started on the 29th according to first post? This isn't so much directed at you because i know you did most of this. just a post for procedure for future lookers. Last part is for you sorry dude.

So you have a circulation issue, water pump not pumping or blockage somewhere in your system, low on coolant. First since you have"waterfall noise" could be low on coolant ohhh wouldn't that b nice! try to bleed system or flush and then re-fill and bleed time to give it a try


But since it has been heated up so much and most cases by the time the light comes in its already too late now you should perform the lovely exhaust gas in coolant check if this has bad results it could mean the head gaskets are cooked that can be fixed but slow down buddy, its not the most fun job in the world but if your mechanical you can do it download the "rave" and get a buddy to help if nothing else he can drink beer and entertain you so you don't go crazy!!! After you tear down get the heads milled and inspected for cracks, bad valves ect... ( you may have screw up here)

Are you ready for the really. Bad news?
Worst case would be a cracked block or a slipped sleeve in this case your looking at a block or engine replacement that's why I asked what year and how many miles?

 

I never ran the heat prior to the 29th. It was only driven on the trailer and off. I have flushed everything with a hose. The system flows everywhere both ways with a hose. When I bleed it correctly and cap the system it builds pressure and pushes coolant and exhaust gases out of the weakest link ie: coolant cap and overflow tube the heater hoses also almost double in diameter. I think these are all signs that the motor is pushing exhaust gases into the water system and pushing the water out of the system. lr2001, where would you look for a blockage? I have done what you have suggested with flushing the core, at the same time I flushed the motor and the radiator. I have removed all hoses and even bench tested the t-stat to confirm it was opening with boiling water.

If the motor "ticked" then most say the block has a slipped sleeve, but it does not.
If the oil had water in it then I am told the sleeve is slipped, but it does not.

My question is would you guys put more in this motor or stop and look for a motor to swap?

Disco Mike has suggested a leak down test and test the coolant ( Coolant tested positive )
A leak down test will at least tell me what side of the motor is my problem.

Thanks for the replies

 

I'm in agreement with mike and also think if you know you did the job right then its a cracked block move on (even the best sometimes mess up) but if you are un sure do your pressure test and find out? Its up to you buddy if you want to put more into it or pull the motor and drop in a running motor. (I think your here) sorry. Just my opinion bud its totally possible for a block to crack. And if to get missed to the naked eye during a head job.