Disco 2 Shaking A lot at 60mph
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Mudding
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 214
Likes: 23
Disco 2 Shaking A lot at 60mph
Been having this issue for a few months now...
Basically gets to around 60mph and shakes pretty hard. The shaking feels like it is coming from right under the front seats.
Worth noting, I had the front drive shaft replaced last Spring.
Basically gets to around 60mph and shakes pretty hard. The shaking feels like it is coming from right under the front seats.
Worth noting, I had the front drive shaft replaced last Spring.
Pro Wrench
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,918
Likes: 86
From: St Louis MO
Definitely check tire balance. When I had the stock tires on my D2, my vibration at highway speeds made me think something was going to fly off the driveline. My right rear tire was 0.5oz out of balance. Rebalanced all of them and drove smooth as silk afterward.
Baja
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 5,845
Likes: 368
From: Near Bordeaux, France
Starting with the obvious stuff, tire/wheel balance. Then possibly the drive shafts particularly the front cardan. Also it can be the transfer box front or rear bearings giving out and jumping around, it'll be obvious by oil leaking fron the flange seals. Even the diff pinion bearings can cause vibration when worn a lot.
Finally, engine and gearbox mountings, these are dead and collapse after 10 years and 100K miles. (to check engine mounts it's easy, there is a hole undeneath them, measure the depth using an inverted verner gauge, it they are 20-25mm that's OK if the are less they have collapsed or started to collapse. This collapse doesn't necessarily cause vibration it just makes the ride and engine noise/vibration very harsh.
Start with the easy checks and tasks first and work your way through the list.
Finally, engine and gearbox mountings, these are dead and collapse after 10 years and 100K miles. (to check engine mounts it's easy, there is a hole undeneath them, measure the depth using an inverted verner gauge, it they are 20-25mm that's OK if the are less they have collapsed or started to collapse. This collapse doesn't necessarily cause vibration it just makes the ride and engine noise/vibration very harsh.
Start with the easy checks and tasks first and work your way through the list.
Mudding
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 155
Likes: 14
Well, that would be the culprit if the vibration started at the same time the drive shaft was replaced. But did you buy a new drive shaft (which should come balanced from the factory) or did you have the u-joints replaced? (in which case it should be balanced afterward)
Anyway that's easy to test. Lock the transfer case and remove the drive shaft (About 15 minutes with the right tools) then go for a test drive. If the vibration is gone then take the drive shaft to a specialized shop to have it balanced. It cost me 85$CAN here to have it balanced here last October.
Anyway that's easy to test. Lock the transfer case and remove the drive shaft (About 15 minutes with the right tools) then go for a test drive. If the vibration is gone then take the drive shaft to a specialized shop to have it balanced. It cost me 85$CAN here to have it balanced here last October.
Last edited by Lowest Bidder; Dec 10, 2014 at 04:12 PM.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 942
Likes: 29
From: St. James, NY
If the driveshaft was unbalanced when it was replaced, you would have vibrations then. You can look at the driveshaft to see if a weight got knocked off. If theres no indications that a weight is missing. Get the tires balanced.
