I bought a 2001 Disco II for my 17 year old daughter and she loves it, but it has been kicking my butt trying to figure it out. It began starving for fuel and it got to the point were you could not get it to go over 10 MPH. We replaced the Fuel pump, with no improvements.
So we then replaced the ECU and BCU and Rover came back to life she drove it for less than a week and it is going back to running the way it was before we changed the Ecu.
I am a shade tree mechanic at best so I got a disabled mechanic to work on it and he is the one that came up with the ecu.
So if any one has any suggestions I am game for any help I can get.
Thanks for help on "SAVING KELSEY'S ROVER"

 

Any codes? Have you checked fuel pressure, were the ecu and bcu programmed, do you have spark, how many miles? Answer all the above.

 

Waiting to hear the answers to the last reply.
By the way, how many miles on it?

 

Let us think about some points:

Pressing gas pedal should move throttle butter fly plate.

ECU uses a number of sensors to take that condition (% open of throttle) and consider other things like fuel temperature, mass of air flow into engine, incoming air temp, and fuel temp. It does the math, and decides how long to squirt fuel from the injectors. In some conditions it goes to "limp home mode."

So having a scanner hooked up, which can also read live data, is a help. You will know if you have a check engine light on (MIL status on/off) and any codes. In the world of Rovers, evil previous owners are known to paint over or disable lights. The engine light should come on at bulb test when you crank up.

By hooking up a scanner you can see values and if they are logical. As an example, coolant temp = -40F is not logical. You can see if throttle position sensor is changing value. Attached is a Rover booklet on fuel injection systems used (yours is the Bosch) and it includes values for many of the sensors and what they look like. Of course every electrical plug has to be clean inside and firmly seated.

As stated above, common test would be check fuel pressure at driver side rear under edge of top section of manifold (placed there by the same Klingon who designed to spark coil mountings).

The came back to life and then returned to evil ways may indicate that truck re-learned a combination of bad sensors and is doing exactly what it was programmed to do. Or codes stored could indicate transmission problems. Even low voltage at battery, or corroded connections can make strange things happen. Would need 13.6-14.4 at battery at idle.

 

A vacuum leak, malfunctioning O2 or MAF sensor could cause the gas mileage to drop significantly too.

 

I do like live data scanners that can show these sensors changing. A sensor that doesn't not change is suspect usually. Please let us know your progress.

 

118,000 mileage. It is starving out a little when we first try to take off but it seems to be fine after a few miles. I may starve out a couple of times but it is much better than it was. What are the chances the catalytic converter could be plugging up. Had an old Bonneville that was the problem a cutting torch and a welder fixed that problem.

 

should be spewing out codes.
Put a scanner on to the OBD-II.

People can disconnect the check engine light to make the used Rover seem less used...

 

I have noticed that there are 4 or 5 warning lights on the dash, was just not worring about them until we get the engine running right, I am sure some of that could be from changing the parts we have changed. FYI