Savannah, I have been gingerly experimenting w/ driving my Disco II. You asked what it ran in traffic and on the fwy...If I remember...Anyways, it runs right about 200, when I feather foot it. When I drive it a bit harder, it goes to 205 to 210...higher if I foot it at all...so, I don't.

The conclusion I've come to is ther radiator is clogged, either from Dex, Alumiseal, bad mainteance or some combo of the three...
I think the rig runs good. I just need a new radiator. Which brings us to who has the best price on at least an OEM radiator...if not an aftermarket w/ 3 or 4 row core...
Thanks
PS I shot a couple of pix of the modified radiator "tee"...let's see if I can get one on here...
There's a pitcock in the back and the temp sending unit, w/ ground on top...

 

You can get a oem cheap for $150.00. or a brit part or LR oem for about $385.00 Take your pick...

Land Rover Discovery Radiator 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 4.0 V8 | eBay

 

Lot better than options for D1 owners.... copper and brass makes those quite a bit higher. I like the bleed valve on the tee, wish there was some way to rig a hose on it so bleeding would not be so bleeding messy. I fear than many owners stop the process after a few squirts, there is usually more where that came from....

 

I always deal with The Radiator Barn, not always the cheapest but very good product and super service and Lifetime Warranty. There web site if filled with tons of cooling imformation. Radiators, automotive radiators, condenser, oem radiators, truck radiators

 

I'm not sure I'd say that. As lest the D1 radiators aren't made out of plastic and bubble gum. The important part of that being you can actually get one re-cored and expect it to work properly.

Nobody reputable wants to touch re-coring a plastic tanked radiator.

 

True, I had a reliable flush, rod out, and solder up a few spots for $70. But the new ones for a D1 are almost what some guys pay for a limping D1. And the D2's have that brittle nipple that snaps off if you look at it hard.

 

O.K. here is where I am at now. I completely flushed the cooling system the proper way and then used a new thermostat and I have bled the system three times when cold. Added water wetter. I am sure I have all the air out and the hoses are full of coolant and pressurized when hot. No coolant loss so far. Highway driving the temps are a steady 194 to 197. However, stop lights and idle are now showing 206 to 212. I have checked my fan clutch, only half turn when hot, peanut butter feel. The auxiliary fan has been kicking to help cool it. It's only 50 degrees outside, what am I missing? I am afraid of what might happen during 90 degree weather.

Thanks,

Mikre

 

50:50 coolant mix? Sometimes guys have accidentally installed pure 100% coolant, which does not do as well.

No bubble water fall sounds under dash? Would be a good sign.

Radiator, if not new, may have buildup in lower rows that a water flush won't get out. That would reduce the cooling of the radiator. THis would show up as lower part of radiator much cooler than top area.

But your temps are much better than some, who cruise around at 220. Your stat is partially open (starts at 180, fully open at 204), so highway sounds good. The electric fan is doing its job. In warm weather it may run longer. You would expect engine to heat up when driven, then stopped at a light.

Hopefully all fan blades mounted correctly, and air moving thru radiators, toward engine, not toward the grille.

 

Thanks,
No waterfall sound behind dash. The fan is correct and not broken either. I am betting its the radiator as it is the only link in the chain that was not replaced. (water pump is also unchanged) . The electric fan can pull the temp back down to 202-206 or so in stop and go traffic. I was hoping to run under 200 if possible. Radiators seem inexpensive so I may do that next.

On a side note..I have the ticking noise a lot of people have in the 2003-2004 Discos. I noticed while doing the straight water part of my system flush that the temps only got up to 180-192 or so. The ticking went away and I could keep it at idle as long as I wanted and it never came back. After the change with the coolant it comes back when the temp hits about 200 for the first time after sitting all night.

Thanks,

Mike

 

You may want to consider a in-line thermostat that replaces what you have now, and it allows selection of thermostat temperature. Those who have installed it report temps in the 180s. Staright water will run colder thant coolant mix, but no corrsosion or antifreeze properties, or ability to avoid boil over until well above 210 F. Ticking could be cylinder liner. But you may want to check oil PSI to be sure it is not oil pump tick.