Oh My...So I take a look in the engine bay while its running today and I have a slight wobble at the water pump...arrrrrrrrrrrr... I ordered the new high quality water pump from AB. O.K. so, while I'm in there lets talk fan clutch upgrade. I know that for a 2004 Disco like mine that the 2001 Chevy Blazer non-AC clutch should work. I have a one piece fan/clutch so I am thinking I might get the same fan you are using. I looked on line and I am not sure which one to buy. I know it must be trimmed so I want one that is nylon or one that is the correct size.

I am going to wait on the thermostat update mod, but I will get to it.

Thanks,

Mike

 

try Paul nice guy, good pricing, he may have the stock 99-02 blade & clutch that you can use. paulgrant@mac.com

 

My current fan/clutch is fine, I am really looking for something to move more air. Does the 99-02 have better cooling properties? I have not looked into it. Also, how about just ditching the clutch/fan and wiring up high capacity puller fan instead. Has to have a mileage benefit and also will not strain the water pump? Anyone do this?

Thanks,

Mike

 

I believe it has been done, level of air pulled might not be what you want, but it would be less work for pump bearings. MPG offset by increased electrical demand. I have a Kia 3.8 liter with electric only fans, stays at 180F like a rock, 210K 1 owner miles. On my D1 I went an alternate path, used a $19 large fan and clutch from a Chevy Blazer (2001 I think) at the junkyard. This is not to suggest that the junkyard is for everyone. But it is cheap for experimenters. And a Ford Taurus has a nice looking 18 inch electric fan....

I went with a deeper pitch fan blade, it moves more air, and my scanner said 6-10F difference on hot 100F days on level ground over the same boring test ride. Had to trim blade carefully. You want a blade with metal hub.

D1 and D2 have same water pump, so the 6" Chevy/GMC clutch screws right on, it is also reverse rotation, just like ours. You will need the fan shroud, removed for picture taking.

 

I think I am going to pull the fan/clutch and go with the electrics just to see. I just grabbed twin 12" fans with relay and wiring for $60.00 on Ebay. I will report back afterward as far as how well it works and if there is any noticeable mileage improvement. Worst case it doesn't work and I can just go back to my old set-up. Either way I need to change out the water pump first.

Thanks,

Mike

 

Consider one of those new style "bronze impeller" water pumps, from BP Utah and maybe others, the large curved impeller will move more water. Best to do this sort of testing if you have a scanner or ultra gauge for seeing the digital temps directly, not depend on the "averaging" gauge.

Pix of new style pump, older wobbly pump, coated with engine stopz leakz, close up of scale from non-distilled water and who knows what coolant. Wobbly pumps eat aluminum, circulate aluminum "grit" in cooling system.

 

Update: Thanks again for all of the helpful information. New factory thermostat installed (Atlantic British was very good about it), system bled but engine is running at 204 F, so when I can get the time in about a week I plan on pulling the radiator and flushing it vinegar and leaving it filled with vinegar, if that doesn't drop the temps I will look to replacing the radiator, thanks for the earlier links to companies that sell DII radiators.

 

I've been helping a friend work on his D2, with an overheating problem. Previous owner had used radiator stop leak and clogged the radiator completely. Commercial flush products barely touched the clog, but vinegar seemed to work much better. The boiling and freezing point of vinegar is very close (within a few degrees) to water.

 

So in preparation for my twin fan mod I changed out the radiator for a new one and updated the water pump to the AirTex type. I have a new thermostat and I have no air left in the system and I have bled it three times now. I am running a 60/40 coolant mix and my system was very clean before it was flushed.

Before doing this the Disco ran between 196 and 206 in 60 degree weather. Now I am getting 204 to 220 in 60 degree weather and fan coming on! I have checked belts and pulleys and they are fine. I am checking to see if I am losing fluid, but at the moment its seems fine too. The engine sounds fine and I am not getting any codes when checked. No waterfall sound and the fan feels like peanut butter and only does 1/2 turn hot. No coolant smell in exhaust either.

Bad thermo? head gaskets? Something I missed?

 

radiator. seems to always be the radiator. was it rodded?