Is there any way that we can get this information deleted? Or at least Edited with big letters saying.
WARNING: THIS IS NOT THE STANDARD WAY OF BLEEDING A COOLING SYSTEM. DO AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!

I just read another members thread saying that he followed instructions on this forum and bled his system with the engine running. I'm not sure if he got his info from this thread or not, but anyone suggesting to bleed your cooling system with the engine running is just plain wrong and doing it with your engine revving at 2,300rpm is pretty crazy and new to me. I'll have to ask all my ASE certified friends about that one. I'm sure I'll get some creative responses from them.

 

I do think it would be helpful if jfell edited his post to clarify that he had already bled the system as per the RAVE and was just trying to clear up the "waterfall" issue.

As least, that's how I interpret his post.

As far as I'm concerned, it's valid way to clear up the waterfall, though I can't preach it's efficacy because I haven't tried it. But I need to, as a few RAVE-style bleeds have failed to completely clear it up. But if the system is mostly bled, jfall's technique won't hurt anything.

 

Don't delete my thread.
I don't bleed the Discovery II per the rave.

The bleed screw is evil. It breaks.

Just raise the coolant bottle.
run the engine - to burp the rover for 10 minutes with the cap off of the coolant bottle.
Fill it back up to the line.
Put the cap back on.
Done.

Note - this method is EXACTLY how a Discovery I bleeds.
See where I got the idea from?

 

I would suspect it breaks from over tightening. It relies on the o-ring to seal (not the threads) and only needs to be tightened a little beyond finger tight. A SCUBA tank has 3000 psi in it and the 1st stage regulator, which is sealed by a o-ring, is only finger tight. The bleed screw is only holding 15 psi.

 

That is very interesting. There's no bleeder on a D1? That may also be why Jared sees other people bleeding with the engine running; not because of this thread, but because it's the D1 procedure.

You may be right. I suspect the heat it's exposed to for years cooks the plastic until it is significantly weakened.

I'm an inline thermo guy, so I'll never have to worry about it again.

 

The only difference with the D1 - is - the coolant bottle IS THE HIGHEST
point in the cooling system on a D1.

Not so with a D2.

To get all the bubbles out - as a bubble seeks the highest point in the cooling system trip - one has to raise the coolant tank.

On a D1 - the tank is already raised for you by virtue of design.

I used this method on my D2 one year ago.
Never had to do it again. Was perfectly bleed.
never had to add any more coolant either.

I did top the coolant off a few days ago - about 1cm of coolant into coolant tank for the year. That's pretty good.

 

Then you sold your truck.

You sure are posting a lot today for a guy who doesn't own a Disco

 

Seller's remorse... He's grieving...

 

Couple things...

Are the heater controls vacuum? Never had that part disassembled to inspect the whole thing...

But...if the rover is not running, the heater valve, the one that lets the coolant pass, might be closed, thus trapping the air?

I "used" to get better bleeds with it running. Haven't had to bleed the rover in a few months now so my maintenance must be worthy.

 

On these trucks the coolant always passes thru the heater; it doesn't matter how anything is set.