Dive in or cut my losses and get out?
Thread Starter
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Overlanding
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 24
Likes: 3
I put a paint stripe on the top of the head bolts and on my socket so I can get the bolts torqued to spec. I don't think the studs are worth the extra $$.
Most of the economical sourced parts are fine, I have never seen a demonstrable life difference in anything other than the obvious DOA oxygen sensors.
Have the heads checked, they will tell you if they need to be decked. I think I pay around $80 here for decking.
Most of the economical sourced parts are fine, I have never seen a demonstrable life difference in anything other than the obvious DOA oxygen sensors.
Have the heads checked, they will tell you if they need to be decked. I think I pay around $80 here for decking.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 3,818
Likes: 1,337
From: Mission BC Canada
@entjohnson The money spent on decking is well spent, a set of true heads helps the head gasket last longer by giving a better overall seal.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,516
Likes: 442
From: SE PA
Sorry, I can't recommend any shops near Auburn. Maybe put something in the Wanted section to see it that's a cheaper route. In that the truck's history is unknown, it's probably advisable to have them at least checked.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 288
Likes: 57
From: Southern Florida
Shavings could be from an already decked head, just saying. You may be able to just clean up the heads yourself if and put new headgaskets if flat, check with feeler gauges and flat stock.
Thread Starter
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Overlanding
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 24
Likes: 3
Before you take it apart, check the oil pressure using a test kit (google it or check my previous post). If the oil pressure is to spec, you don't need to do oil pump. If the truck has less than 150k, you don't need a timing chain. I would replace every non-metallic component in the cooling system if your son is going to drive it. Have him check the coolant level every saturday morning before he starts the truck once you are finished. Do your best to not disconnect the oil and transmission coolers, message me for details. Clean the rocker arm post oil passages, they will be sludged up. Tape all the wiring, and replace the damaged looms. Check the idler pulleys as you are taking it apart, if you can feel ANY wiggle, replace them. Make sure you do the PCV mod, I recommend the inline thermostat mod. Undo the exhaust manifold bolts from the pipes before you remove the manifolds, then put them back with the nuts on the studs one turn before bolting to the heads. Much easier that way. Buy some kroil and put on the exhaust pipe studs/nuts for several days before removal so they don't snap. When you loosen them, work them back and forth if they are tight, don't just try to straight unscrew unless they come off easy.
I have posted complete PM and normal failure list several times, I recommend you look them up.
Keep asking questions.
Preventative maintenance is much easier and cheaper than repairs. Planned repairs for items than cannot be prevented will be cheaper than last minute emergencies.
I have posted complete PM and normal failure list several times, I recommend you look them up.
Keep asking questions.
Preventative maintenance is much easier and cheaper than repairs. Planned repairs for items than cannot be prevented will be cheaper than last minute emergencies.
I spent a little time trying to look up the PCV mod and inline thermostat mod you are referring to, but have not been able to find them. I'm sure I'm just not looking them up the right way or in the right place, but if you could point me to reference, that would be great.
Heads are in the shop at the moment.....waiting on a report to see where we are. Getting parts ordered and starting to get everything cleaned up.