I've got ACE and SLS (airbags) in my D2a V8 4L and I've noticed two things when stopping at traffic lights:

1) Sometimes the rear will lower a little. It looks like the front is raising but obviously that can't be since it's got coils, right? Or can ACE do this?

Is that normal? Does yours do it too? Or is it a sign that the SLS is failing?

(I had the rear drop completely to the very lowest setting the other day when driving on a lot of curves and speed bumps. It then raised up later and I've never found it sagged in the morning.)


2) Sometimes shortly after braking to stop in traffic, the front will jolt up very quickly like it's getting unstuck from something.

Is that an issue with shocks (probably the original ones still, after 75,000 miles on the clock), coils, or is it something to do with ACE? Danger?

 

I have a 2000 Disco 2 with ACE but no SLS. I had one time where water (due to a deep stream crossing) got into some wiring on the ACE sensor on the frame below the passenger seat. It caused the truck to rock side to side and display the ACE warning light on the dash. Shut it off and restarted. Cleared it.
I would venture a guess it’s your SLS. ACE deals with side to side leanings, not front to rear.

 

Not normal for an ACE/SLS D2 unless it only happens very occasionally. But this means you have a problem --> "(I had the rear drop completely to the very lowest setting the other day when driving on a lot of curves and speed bumps. It then raised up later and I've never found it sagged in the morning.)"

I suspect you have leaky airbags in the SLS system. The front seeming to go down is actually the rear going up. But shouldn't happen every single time you come to a stop.

Nothing to do with ACE.

 

I replaced my rear airbags (and shocks) and they run good now, no more random lowering so far.

But I'm noticing that this still happens at almost every other traffic light while city driving. The rear will drop every so slightly just as I stop.

Sensors doing something weird? Maybe they adjusted for whatever driving I was doing?

Any idea what to check/how?

 

I have SLS and ACE .. I noticed it on mine .. chalked it up to a glitch in the ECU .. It stopped after I changed the ECU ... I actually really miss it ..

Good on you not to listen to any of these other posters and fight to keep the ACE and SLS ... Losing either really reduces the quality of the ride .. and these people want you to think it doesn't.

Drove a D2 without SLS .. the ride quality was really harsh and the back had sunk below the front springs...never would I change to springs .. never ..

Also now that my ACE pipe is leaking . I did a temp bypass of the ACE pump .. the bars "locked" even then - YES there is a big difference in handling .. no more high speed curves .. "_" .. I used to go 90 MPH and it would kick in perfect . now I have to slow down to 60 MPH ... anything over 60 it will roll over , very dangerous.

As long as the repairs aren't too bad - I'm gonna keep the ACE. Trick is to use Hydrolic Fluid ONLY - never listen to anyone who says to use transmission fluid .. . never allow rust to start in the first place .

I got an appointment with the hydro shop .. hopefully they can fix with without having to install the second ACE pipe. There has to be a way to do it without lifting the body ...

 

You’re totally right that ACE and SLS make a huge difference!

Oh! Good to know!

Did you replace the ECU to fix this? New or from a wreck?

Was it a simple swap over, plug and play, or did you have to recalibrate anything?

 

Junk yard. No accident .. blown HG ...3 Amigos and Christmas lights.. . junkyard guy said "these are really cool cars!" "People get rid of them for the stupidest reasons!!"

i read the forums here. Got the ECU .. BCU .. and Instrument Cluster. Replaced same time. The car sputtered... but worked itself out as I drove it ..

It was a simple job. Plug and play. instrument cluster holders broke. I can't get the ****er to stay in place. Other than that it's perfect. No problems.

 

Also it jolts up because you come to a stop and all that weight goes to the front pushes it down a little .. so springs back up .. I replaced my factory springs at 130k BUT results may vary.

If your a new owner you gotta replace the Factory Thermostat with the 180 T-Stat (or inline T stat) and replace the factory drive shaft with a greaseable shaft .. inspect and change the fan .. the black factory fan with the silly circle blows up the engine. It's got a silly circle around the fan blades...

Those are the 3 very serious things i think all new owners should do ... also ... don't use 10w30 during summer .. if there are noises or ticking the thicker oil might work to quiet it down. From there you can change things in the engine .. build it up and add things .. slowly it will turn into a bad *** Rover .. people will look at it more than a Benz or new BMW .... You can get under armor .. a lift .. radios ..bumper .. offroad tires .. roof rack .. rear bumpers .. you can never max out on these things.

For now you want the temperatures down. And you want the drive shaft reliable. And you want that stupid coolant fan inspected and changed. Maybe to heavy duty. I don't know. . Also please get rid of the orange dex coolant it will destroy your cooling system and offers no benefits really. Switch to green,

 

Are you sure about that?

I have the issue that the back lowers when I've stopped at a traffic light, not that it raises. Brand new airbags and shocks, also brand new front springs and shocks too.