Tear down of the 4.6. Previous owner told me this jumped time. At least than 86,000 miles I don't see an engine eating a timing chain unless it's a dumb VW V6 motor.

I stole the heads and idler pulleys off of it over the last two years, never noticed the timing cover/oil pump housing cracked. This is in the dowel alignment issue vin range





I was trying to get the pistons/rods all marked/removed as well as camshaft before dark so I didn't get a chance to pull off the oil pump cover.

Luckily there's no scoring on any of the bearing journals. Still need to take the camshaft to the shop to verify all the lobes spec out. By eyeball, it's A ok.

The 4.0 block we have is running with a low oil light, 2001 model. Not sure if it's been driven like that, if it's an actual low oil pressure issue or the PO running it with open headers melted the oil pressure sensor wiring. The rig is a non sunroof modle with ugly paint. If the block checks out ok she's getting the 4.6 rotating assembly plus new rings and bearings. At about 125k I'm hoping all cylinders check out within spec as new sleeves are not in the first ride budget. Yes it's not the proper way to build a motor but it's his first vehicle, it's not getting the works.

It will get a thermostat mod, aluminum overflow, water and temp analog gauges and 3 inch lift. If he wrecks it I can use some of these goodies on another rig for myself or the little ladies daily driver.

I may use the ugly 2001 but really looking for something a bit nicer that has engine or transmission issues somewhere between Charlotte, Atlanta, Charleston, SC and Gatlinburg Tennessee.



​​​​​​
​​​​​​

 

I ran out of daylight so had to do my cleanup in the dark.

I found this under the motor, any idea what it goes to?


The engine. Is completely torn down, nothing left but a CPA and some motor mounts. Could have dropped out while rotating several times.

 

Oil pickup spacer / standoff. See it in your second pic in between the bolts on the middle right main bearing?

 

I do now! Thank you!

 

Fan removal tool. No idea when I acquired this wrench. Had to take a little off the inside jaws to fit the hex nut on the fan but it is a snug fit

 

Now I hit it with a 2x 4 like it owes me money.

 

 

Off in less than 2 minutes. Smack it from drivers side towards passenger side (North American spec)

Some nice close ups of some very professional wiring work. A diy coil relocation, complete with wire nuts.

Takes all of 20 minutes and a 10 dollar gasket to pull the upper in intake to replace coils and plug wires. I feel they should always be done at the same time because....its a pita to access and even the Amazon brand coils last a long time with good brand plug wires. I suppose if you have money to blow a relocation kit is a good idea but you'd be better off investing that cash in a nanocom, some oil pressure and water temp gauges, flow cooler water pump and inline thermostat mod. Ok

 

Most of the transmission bolts were easy to access on the 03 disco as the heads were already off. I'm not pulling the heads on the 01 until it's in the engine stand.

On my previous builds I've usually used a body lift to make access to items like bell bell housing bolts easier.

I swapped an Isuzu 4bd1t into an fj60 with a 2 inch body lift. Added some leaf springs to each spring pack+ Hell for stout 1.5 inch lift shackles. Along with modding the oil pan, I cleared the front drive shaft and front axle with ease. Also had plenty of room to work on the rig if needed

On an fj40 installed a 4bd2t Isuzu motor. This time only using 4 inch heavy duty leaf springs. Even stock shackles. Stock she had plenty of clearance.

On my current daily driver 1st Gen 4 runner I added a 2 inch body lift. This was mostly to clear the VW TDI motors oil pan (using hybrid steel/aluminum 1.8t pan). The IFS limits space but there's no travel to factor in. If I remove the rear cross member bolts (8) I can angle the transmission downward just enough to easily access the top transmission bolts.

This disco is a much tighter tunnel. With enough extensions and swivels I can reach the but it's insanely tight. On this removal I plan on lowering the rear of the transmission, looks like a pita to remove the mounting brackets while in the vehicle. Does anyone have any tips/tricks? If I had a lift this would be much easier. Unfortunately, no lift in my back yard

 

Running the pistons through the ultrasonic cleaner with aluminum safe cleaner. Before and after