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Doing a 4.6 rotating assembly into a 4.0 a daily driver build for the kid

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Old Jan 9, 2025 | 08:14 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by PickleRick
The center shaft was surprisingly not leaking so I left it alone. There was a huge glob of permatex all over the transmission side of the case where it appears someone has been into it before. There was no thread sealer on any of transfer case mounting bolts which was likely the source of my leaks.

I did watch a video on the shaft o ring replacement early today and it looks simple enough so long as one remembers to count the turns to remove the nut. The nut isn't staked on this transfer case....which is wonderful to find but luckily as it's not blown apart yet. Not gas it made any weird noises so I'm giving the previous repair person some credit... maybe too much ..that it was assembled properly.


Every other o ring I've removed so far has been closer to that of plastic than rubber o ring.

If I have time at in the morning I'll take a stab at it. I still have plenty of permatex left.
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Every one I have removed is closer to plastic than rubber.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2025 | 08:39 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Extinct
Every one I have removed is closer to plastic than rubber.
Got it removed this morning. The o ring was hard but not as hard as the others. Not a really high quality o ring on these.

The nut side of the shaft o ring was either missing or fell off when I wasn't looking during removal.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2025 | 07:07 PM
  #53  
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Use lots of Permatex high torque silicone on both sides. The high torque is stiffer when cured and will prevent the shaft from wearing out the case.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2025 | 07:20 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Extinct
Use lots of Permatex high torque silicone on both sides. The high torque is stiffer when cured and will prevent the shaft from wearing out the case.

Ultra grey high torque to be exact. Pretty much all we use although I do keep some high temp red for 2 cycle/4 mix crankcases.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2025 | 01:15 PM
  #55  
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For those interested in removing the engine and transmission, if you're like me you don't own a transmission jack. I need one but it's never gotten purchased.

The engine, transmission and transfer case are all much easier to remove and install outside the rig via a cherry picker. I don't like working while laying on my back unless I have to.

I removed the engine and transmission together.

I reinstalled back together complete with the aid of my significant other.

The drivers side transfer case mounting bracket is ok but the rubber mount will be in the way. The passenger side rubber mount also needs to be removed.

Used ratchet straps to help level it out from time to time as the load leveler only does so much on this long of an assembly.

If the ac condenser wasn't in the way and your didn't mind making the top filler panel removable it would save a ton of adjusting.

 
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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 06:54 AM
  #56  
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Finally got it reassembled and took it for a test spin.

First thing I noticed is how quiet she is. I can actually hear the serpentine belt spinning. Not the lifters, not the slipped sleeve, actual belt noise.

I did the ignition module relocation. The plug boots hit the liner on the hood which I'm not happy about, it has a little adjustment I'm going to play with when I have time.

The service engine light came on when pulling in the driveway for the rear (downstream) O2 sensor heating circuits not working. The f2 fuse is ok. No dash lights before the swap.

My cats were deleted by the PO and I was welding a few leaks while the Y pipe was out. I removed the sensors one at a time while I was welding close to them. Perhaps the welding took them out? Perhaps coincidence? Maybe a broken wire? Either way before I start pulling down wiring for voltage tests I ordered two new ones that will be here tomorrow.

My front sensors read even on a bar graph. My rear one both flatline. Hope it's just bad sensors. But she runs and as of now leak free.

Also did the extinct thermostat mod. She idled a good 20 minutes so I could top off the transmission fluid before the first spin and never got past about 185-190. No hard hoses from extreme back pressure (referencing another thread). Runs cooler than the white Rover thermostat she came with some 3-4 years ago and has been used as a daily driver every since

The real test will be AC full blast this July when it's 98 degrees, 110 on the asphalt.

Since I mixed/matched my best engine parts into the significant others daily driver I must now start collecting more disco 2 vehicles to acquire more.

The prices on the 3.0 Duramax are pretty reasonable with their 10 speed transmission that SHOULD use the same adapter as the 6l80 to fit our lt230. There is a stand alone harness available. Should someone delete all the crappy emissions items and convert the cp4 pump back to cp3....that could make for a very interesting disco
 

Last edited by PickleRick; Feb 3, 2025 at 06:59 AM.
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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 07:20 AM
  #57  
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a 3.0 dmax in a disco has been on my mind since that motor first came out. Not at all familiar with it enough to have any opinion on the specifics other than I'm most likely moving to an area with no emissions here this year so maybe this is something I dig into a little deeper!
 
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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 07:23 AM
  #58  
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The best tuners I've used for my VW engines are in Canada, free from the reach of our EPA.... probably best to wait a while as I'm sure the exchange rates will be less than stellar in the near future.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2025 | 11:18 AM
  #59  
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I finished up the project about 2 weeks ago. I drove it out to dinner for a shake down. My better half finally got back in it this morning.

She fired it up at about 30 degrees. First thing she says was "it's so quiet and smooth"

I got a text message on her way in on the some 25 min commute

"She's running much cooler"

Got a second text when she got to work "wow, this is so much faster from a stop"



​​​​​She has no idea what I did to it other than stopped the slipped sleeve knock.



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Last edited by PickleRick; Feb 17, 2025 at 11:20 AM.
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