Hello all,

I've searched the forums and not been able to find a specific fix action. Moderators, apologies if this post is in the wrong spot, etc. I will fix when/if alerted...

Vic = 2004 Disco 2, ALL Fuses/relays replaced upon purchase

Issue = Whether the dash lock/unlock button is pressed, ONLY the 2 front doors lock/unlock. When the key fob is utilized, all doors will lock, but only the front 2 will unlock. When I utilize the physical key in the driver door I can lock ALL doors, when i use the physical key in the driver door i can ONLY unlock the front doors. I have replaced the Driver door lock actuator 12v motors with no luck, so I then replaced the entire drivers door lock actuator. There has been some water damage around the sunroofs, so I currently have the headliner out and am able to access all electronics relatively easily should i go down the wireless receiver path. I'm assuming the unlock 12v motor is bad in both rear doors as well as the trunk. As I failed replacing the 12v motors in the driver door, i don't want to make the same mistake, wasting time and money.

Looking forward to any/all help that is offered. Thanks.

-25

 

If any of the locks work with the keyless entry handset, it's not a problem it cannot be a problem with the wireless receiver.

 

I had a weird problem today on a truck that was a little similar, ps front door would lock but not unlock. Took it all apart and diagnosed it. It appeared to be a connection issue with the motor to the lock assembly, I was able to fix it by twisting the connector tabs just slightly. The same motor is used for lock and unlock so there is no reason it should not do both, you can check the wiring to make sure you get voltage signals for both lock and unlock, if so you can rule out wiring and BCU.

 

Thanks all for your replies... I will pull them out and adjust tabs. I ordered new motors as well - hopefully right specs. It's just odd to me that the rears will not lock with the dash button or remote, but lock when key is used in driver door. The voltage follows the same path, no?

 

A perfectly plausible answer for this is that it might take more force to unlock than lock that door. A suspect connection would cause more voltage drop during the current surge from the solenoid activation than would be allowable to actuate the unlock function, but the lock function requiring less force would complete before the voltage drop stalled the process. You might not have even needed to twist the spade lugs, it might have solved just by the scraping of oxidation when you disconnected the connectors. At the age and rough usage of our trucks, a few disconnect/connect cycles of all connectors can sometimes chase away electrical gremlins for years.

BTW, I'm installing my inline thermostat tomorrow. I'm excited to see the improvement.

 

I had it out on the bench, that was not the issue. I believe the issue was the replacement motor internal connectors had a bit more clearance than oem, and motor torque would shift it just enough in one direction to disconnect one of the lugs.

 

Ah, gotcha. Well then, my explanation will just go as an example to those who don't do a diagnosis step because they can't understand why something could possibly be the problem.