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Down pipe studs buggered - to silencer

Old Jan 27, 2017 | 11:57 PM
  #11  
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If you do take it out, take off the two crossmembers and it comes out like a dream
 
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Old Jan 28, 2017 | 03:40 AM
  #12  
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My flange was pretty rusted out, so I went this route. Flange repair kit.



The studs on the original are press fit, and even with heat...they can be a bugger to beat out. Mainly because of the position you are in and having to hold on to the flange and beat it at the same time. Yes, it's possible to do...but a pain. I was actually able to get the three studs out of the flange over the rear axle pretty easily, but it was out in the open more.

Brian.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2017 | 01:14 PM
  #13  
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Thanks Deputy... that might be a better idea!
 
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Old Jan 28, 2017 | 01:19 PM
  #14  
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Deputy, do you have a link to the kit you bought?

And there isn't a gasket for this connection, correct?
 
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Old Jan 28, 2017 | 03:20 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Jeff Blake
Deputy, do you have a link to the kit you bought?

And there isn't a gasket for this connection, correct?
Not from the y pipe to muffler. There is one where the 3 bolt flange is from the muffler to silencer
 
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Old Jan 28, 2017 | 03:42 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Jeff Blake
Deputy, do you have a link to the kit you bought?

And there isn't a gasket for this connection, correct?
Walker Flange Repair Kit 31953: Advance Auto Parts

No gasket, but as mentioned, the rear/three hole flange has a gasket.

Brian.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2017 | 06:54 PM
  #17  
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Cool thanks.

Propane torch didn't work for me. Did a lot of drilling and dremeling and finally got them out. New bolts I picked up are a little loose in there as the old bolts had a collar around it. I don't think it'll matter. Onwards
 
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Old Jan 29, 2017 | 03:11 PM
  #18  
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Do the flanges need to sit flush with each other? No matter how much tightening I do, there's a 2-3mm gap
 
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