Drilled or solid brake rotors? Bendix, Centric, or Powerstop Brand? Ceramic or Semi M
#11
"Dont go with drilled or slotted is waste of money and they will eat up your brake pads quicker." this is a bull**** answer.
Drilled and slotted rotors will only eat up pads if you use cheap *** pads like duralast, any good rotor will have chamfer holes so they do not act like a cheese grated.
here's a real life Example, no photos, didn't know that rule then.
I rebuilt my brakes d&s rotors, rebuilt my calipers and new Akebono pads, new lines when winter came I found out I had a dragging rr caliper it turned out be a bad guide pin.
Anyway the pads were worn uneven because of the cocked caliper, so being winter and cheap I threw in a set of autozone pads in that caliper, a year later I have already used both sets of the autozone crap and the other the Akebono still look new.
So I have since ordered another set of rear Akebonos to correct the problem once and for all.
The only downside I have ever found with ceramic pads is the do that a few minutes to heat up in the morning.
Drilled and slotted rotors will only eat up pads if you use cheap *** pads like duralast, any good rotor will have chamfer holes so they do not act like a cheese grated.
here's a real life Example, no photos, didn't know that rule then.
I rebuilt my brakes d&s rotors, rebuilt my calipers and new Akebono pads, new lines when winter came I found out I had a dragging rr caliper it turned out be a bad guide pin.
Anyway the pads were worn uneven because of the cocked caliper, so being winter and cheap I threw in a set of autozone pads in that caliper, a year later I have already used both sets of the autozone crap and the other the Akebono still look new.
So I have since ordered another set of rear Akebonos to correct the problem once and for all.
The only downside I have ever found with ceramic pads is the do that a few minutes to heat up in the morning.
#12
Check these part number, they are by centric/stoptech.
Cheap Blanks 120.22005
High Carbon Blanks 125.22005
High carbon Slotted 126.22005SL
High Carbon Drilled 127.22005L
High Carbon Drilled and Slotted 127.22005L
The L at the end is obviously left side the 5 at the end denotes the front as changing it to a 4 will be the rear.
Cheap Blanks 120.22005
High Carbon Blanks 125.22005
High carbon Slotted 126.22005SL
High Carbon Drilled 127.22005L
High Carbon Drilled and Slotted 127.22005L
The L at the end is obviously left side the 5 at the end denotes the front as changing it to a 4 will be the rear.
There are may factors, other than carbon content, that determine hardness.
Here is some info on iron classes:
Classes of Gray Iron
This link has some info on carbon content vs strength (higher carbon = less strength) The question is how does this high carbon content compare to the rotor manufacturer's high carbon content?
Mechanical Properties of Gray Iron - Base Chemical Composition
Here is more info (more than you want to know) on iron & rotors:
http://www.sae.org/events/bce/tutorial-ihm.pdf
I am not knocking Centric (I have them on my wife's Honda Odyssey), It would be easier to compare rotors if the manufacturers said what grade of iron they used, instead of "high carbon"
I got the R1 eline because I felt that I was getting a quality rotor for the cost.. I paid around $130 shipped (from their eBay store) for all 4, the Centric would have been alot more $$ from Rockauto. I haven't installed them yet. I am waiting to get the two SS (jump/link) lines from Crown Performance. When they come in I will be installing rotors, calipers, TF +2 SS lines & Akebono pads.
Last edited by acamato; 09-20-2013 at 08:07 AM.
#14
This is one thing I'm having trouble wrapping my mind around, probably because I'm missing some part.
They say that ceramic brake pads shouldn't be used for towing, but they also say that they stop better, after a small warm up time. If they stop better, why not use them for towing.... and if they heat is good for the ceramic pad friction, wouldn't towing give you that much more heat?
Do ceramic pads only stop better than organic? Are the higher metal content semi-metallic pads better for stopping than either ceramic or organic?
Also, what confuses me is clutches seem to provide conflicting info.... it seems that the best clutch friction disks (before you get to strange exotic stuff) are the ceramic button disks. They say they slip the least, espcially after warmed up. I would think if a semi-metallic friction material is best, there would be people pushing high performance clutch disks made from the same material.
Basically to sum all this up..... I'm confused.
They say that ceramic brake pads shouldn't be used for towing, but they also say that they stop better, after a small warm up time. If they stop better, why not use them for towing.... and if they heat is good for the ceramic pad friction, wouldn't towing give you that much more heat?
Do ceramic pads only stop better than organic? Are the higher metal content semi-metallic pads better for stopping than either ceramic or organic?
Also, what confuses me is clutches seem to provide conflicting info.... it seems that the best clutch friction disks (before you get to strange exotic stuff) are the ceramic button disks. They say they slip the least, espcially after warmed up. I would think if a semi-metallic friction material is best, there would be people pushing high performance clutch disks made from the same material.
Basically to sum all this up..... I'm confused.
#15
"Dont go with drilled or slotted is waste of money and they will eat up your brake pads quicker." this is a bull**** answer.
Drilled and slotted rotors will only eat up pads if you use cheap *** pads like duralast, any good rotor will have chamfer holes so they do not act like a cheese grated.
here's a real life Example, no photos, didn't know that rule then.
I rebuilt my brakes d&s rotors, rebuilt my calipers and new Akebono pads, new lines when winter came I found out I had a dragging rr caliper it turned out be a bad guide pin.
Anyway the pads were worn uneven because of the cocked caliper, so being winter and cheap I threw in a set of autozone pads in that caliper, a year later I have already used both sets of the autozone crap and the other the Akebono still look new.
So I have since ordered another set of rear Akebonos to correct the problem once and for all.
The only downside I have ever found with ceramic pads is the do that a few minutes to heat up in the morning.
Drilled and slotted rotors will only eat up pads if you use cheap *** pads like duralast, any good rotor will have chamfer holes so they do not act like a cheese grated.
here's a real life Example, no photos, didn't know that rule then.
I rebuilt my brakes d&s rotors, rebuilt my calipers and new Akebono pads, new lines when winter came I found out I had a dragging rr caliper it turned out be a bad guide pin.
Anyway the pads were worn uneven because of the cocked caliper, so being winter and cheap I threw in a set of autozone pads in that caliper, a year later I have already used both sets of the autozone crap and the other the Akebono still look new.
So I have since ordered another set of rear Akebonos to correct the problem once and for all.
The only downside I have ever found with ceramic pads is the do that a few minutes to heat up in the morning.
I have a set of ceramic pads on my Rover right now, I did a complete brake overhaul last year, all new calipers (AutoZone) and I ordered my rotors and pads as a set off of e-bay, it came with ceramic pads, they dust just as much as any other brake pad I've ever used and do not stop any better.
#16
All I use is AutoZone pads on my cars, they last forever and have a life time warranty, so I never have to buy another set for as long as I own that car.
I have a set of ceramic pads on my Rover right now, I did a complete brake overhaul last year, all new calipers (AutoZone) and I ordered my rotors and pads as a set off of e-bay, it came with ceramic pads, they dust just as much as any other brake pad I've ever used and do not stop any better.
I have a set of ceramic pads on my Rover right now, I did a complete brake overhaul last year, all new calipers (AutoZone) and I ordered my rotors and pads as a set off of e-bay, it came with ceramic pads, they dust just as much as any other brake pad I've ever used and do not stop any better.
#17
It was $250 shipped for a set of pads and rotors for a DI.
4 calipers from AutoZone was $250.
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