Andrew - I just had this done on mine. I treid to do it myself, but couldn't get the center ball out. The driveline shop had to cut it out with a torch. Here is what I suggest you do:

Buy the parts listed in thread - 3 u-joints and a center ball kit.

Remove the shaft yourself.

Take it do a Drive Line shop and have them rebuild it. It cost me $50 since I already took out.

Put the driveshaft back in when rebuilt.

I think this is the easiest and cheapest way to do it without dealing with the centerball kit. Also, the driveline shop will balance it....makes a huge difference.

Just my .02.

 

I can't believe you can't find someone to do it for less than $300, but maybe that's CA. If that's really the case, then yes, Tom Woods is overkill, but for $50 more I'd say worth it.

A grease gun and good waterproof grease. I prefer Castrol Pyroplex Blue.

 

Only because people know the Spicer brand, not knowing that Spicer doesn't even make the 5-4x u-joints. As for getting what you pay for, Neapco boxed u-joints are about the same price as Spicer boxed.
Sorta like people saying Timken bearings are better bearings than SKF or ***.

 

1. Is the above statement accurate? I ask because other comments led me to believe that the Tom Woods drive shaft would simply and easily replace the OEM--someone on here described it as a 20-minute process I think. But do I need to buy/change the rear adapter? I definitely want to know exactly what I'm getting into with the Tom Woods, particularly if there is more expense or labor involved...

2. I will probably replace the rotoflex regardless, as several people have recommended. British Pacific has a replacement for about $70. Does this sound about right?

3. I just called the other Ventura driveline shop that DiscoMike recommended, and described what I wanted just as helpfully outlined above--buying the parts and removing the drive shaft myself, and simply delivering it to them to rebuild and balance. They quoted me $235+tax. At this price, am I still better off buying the Tom Woods?

 

There is no reason, other then breaking the rear shaft, to replace it. Just plan to replace the rotoflex every 80,000 miles or when you see it starting to crack.

 

Tried Coast Driveline again, with more specific info from this thread, and this time the guy I spoke to didn't even want to take the project. Kept saying that they've never done a Land Rover before, and didn't want to even talk about the project until he had the drive shaft and parts in front of him. Which is not going to happen.

So $350 for a new shaft from Tom Wood's vs. about $254 for a rebuilt shaft from what seems to be the only local shop that can do the work...

Any answers on whether installing the Tom Wood's shaft requires other modifications to the vehicle?

 

Andrew, I called coast driveline and asked them to estimate the labor on what you need done. After some discussion they told me labor shouldn't cost more that $100 bucks. The reason they want you to bring in the shaft and are hesitant to quote a price is because they want to make sure they have the equipment (flange attachments) to do the job right. After looking at coast driveline's website and talking to them I can't imagine them not being able todo it. Seems tobe an awesome shop. Oneother thing, theywill not install any"cheaper" parts such as Neapco or Precision so you should probablyjust take them the numbers for your joints and centeringkit and let them source and supplythem. They'll use Spicer parts if available for your application.On the other hand, for another $100-150 bucks you can get the Tom Woods shaft. These are your choices, just depends on how much money you want to spend.

 

I just installed my Tom Wood’s drive shaft last week.
I am very happy with the product and they are a great company to deal with.
The basic shaft is about $320 shipped but I opted for upgraded shaft for an extra $30 (probably over kill for me).

For the extra money you get a superior product with no issues trying to find a shop that hopefully knows
what they are doing.

 

LOL Too funny. I bet you dollars to doughnuts they don't even know that Spicer doesn't make the 5-4x u-joints. In fact, I think Neapco has done some 5-4x production runs for Spicer because some had the zerk fitting in the end cap, which only Neapco has. But people will believe what they want.

 

Luv2Disco: Thank you for making that call. It clearly helped for them to be speaking with someone who knew what they were talking about. At least I know this may be an option still.

D2000: How did the Tom Wood's install go? Did you have to replace the adapter at the rear differential?