I hear you. I started to get "spun-up" when he spouting that but I figured, "what the hey" at least they're gonna use the best parts they can find so let him think what he wants. I myself bought Precision joints for my shop to install in my truck. I asked my tech if they were O.K. and he said they were just fine, that theyused them all the time with no problems. I figured he knew what he was talking about since it's a very busy shop. Anyway, my shaft looked like new when they re-installed it. I'm sure theWoods shaft is great but probably overkill for me. With the money I save I'm throwing an Optima battery in it. By the way, I was pricing them at Sam's club and they told me they do a 100% free exchange if the Optima fails in the first two years. After that it's pro-rated. free install also.

 

Personally I wouldn't use a Spicer 5-4x u-joint since I have no way to know who made it. But it's your choice of course.

Ok, I'm confused now. I thought it was your front propshaft you want to rebuild. you don't need to do anything to the rear shaft when you do the front.
If your rotoflex coupling is cracked, then yes, you should replace it. If you don't have like a 2" or 3" lift the rotoflex is fine and you can get them for $30-$40. A BMW one fits, can't remember which model BMW.

If you do decide to go with a rear Tom Woods (or GBR, which is what I have in the rear) then yes, you need to swap out the pinio flange on the diff. My GBR shaft came with a replacement 4 bolt flange, so I expect the Tom Woods does as well.

 

Okay here goes the first post, the only thing that is confusing reading this thread is that half of you speak to replacing the u-joints with greasable u-joints - I got that. But the other discussions are centered around getting a new or repairing the driveshaft, so which is it? To fix the common probelm problem here are we replacing u-joints or driveshafts, or both?

 

You have two choices.Cheapest choice is to simply haveyour driveshaft rebuilt BEFORE it breaks and needs to be repaired or replaced, this is simply a matter of replacingthree (greaseable) U-joints and the centering kit. Any shop you use should clean up the shaft, possibly paint it, and also balance it too. The second choice is to go with a new replacement driveshaft from an aftermarket supplier. This will cost more but may be worth it depending on how you use your truck.My shop suggested I spend $400+ for an aftermarket driveshaft but I decided to have it rebuilt at a driveline shop for about $175.

 

Thanks for helping to clarify...I thought that this might be the source of confusion. It is the FRONT shaft that is likely to fail, needs, the greased fittings, and could be replaced with the Tom Wood's option, right? The REAR shaft is not as likely to fail, aside from the rotoflex cracking?

Or do I have that wrong?

By the way, what is the GBR option?

 

Correct. Though eventually the u-joint near the gearbox will need to be replaced. I put on a GBR propshaft years ago so can't remember if the OEM shaft had a zerk in the u-joint or not.
Great Basin Rovers

 

Hopefully for some clarification. See image below.
3 -- Single cardan u-joint (OEM is greasable)
1 -- Double cardan u-joint (OEM is not greasable) -- Also contains the centering kit
4 -- Single cardan u-joint (I can't remember if OEM is greasable)
6 -- Rotoflex


[IMG]local://upfiles/7701/B3695F63BE804AFC8DF58626C73628C8.jpg[/IMG]

 

Thanks. That drawing is very helpful.

So most of you have modified or replaced the front shaft, but done nothing to the rear shaft (aside from replacing the rotoflex when necessary)...is that right?

And if I order from Tom Wood's, they'll know I'm talking about the front shaft?

 

Talk to Josh at Tom Wood's. He just sent me mine last week. VERY easy. Just have the flange to flange measurement handy. Great place. great service, great product. You will,not be disapointed. Call me if you have any questions. 912-663-0909. JF

 

I just wanted to put in a plug for www.driveshaftsuperstore.com Their heavy duty front driveshaft has worked out great for me. The shaft comes with a greasable center bearing as well. I actually had a non-cardon (Disco I) front driveshaft installed on my Disco II. Due to this unusual configuration I had to also purchase a front flange kit in order to mount the new shaft. Also went with the roto-flex kit and a new Neapco 1-0005 u-joint in the rear. I had to enlist the help of a local driveshaft/performance shop to pull out and press in the roto-flex pilot bushing. I don't foresee the need to do anyhing else to the driveshafts except for reqular lubrication with synthetic grease. During the install we also drained and refilled the differentials. Now all that is left to do for the drivetrain is drain and refill the transfer case. Be Safe, Mark V.

www.driveshaftsuperstore.com
ask for Oscar

Maksymyk's Performance-Drvshft [/align] 701 Denton Blvd NW, Fort Walton Beach, FL
(850) 862-0821
ask for Steve - he will probably be the one answering the phone
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