Also check fuse links 12 (30 amp) and 10 (40 amp) and fuse 13 (10 amp) in the under hood fues box. Switch could be an issues, the inside fuse panel also has relays and modules on it tat could be in play.

 

Okay, still no dice. Here's where I am:
-DRL work in all positions
-Turn signals work (part of switch troubleshooting)
-All fuses and fuse links not only pass visual inspection but also work on other known good connections
-When switching from 1st to 2nd position on the stalk, the instrument cluster lights come on and I get the warning chime letting me know that my lights are on when I open the door
-When switching between 2nd and 3rd position, the hi beams will come on but still no headlights
-Brand new bulbs in both lights (even jumped them straight to 12v and got light so they are definitely not the problem)
-Tested voltage at both plugs and get zero voltage until I hit the hi beams
-Removed the switch for giggles because I did not want to pay $110 for a new one. It is very simple in operation and there are no obviously broken parts. Coupled with some of the above info, I don't think it's the switch.
-The only other electrical problem I have is that the rear windows fuse blows sometimes, doubt it's related but for the sake of completeness, there it is


I've studied the Rave circuit diagram and I could be reading it incorrectly but I am not seeing any relays involved. Doesn't the fact that the hi beams work preclude a ground issue?

At this point, and despite inspecting the switch as well as ascertaining that numerous other 3rd positions functions work, I cannot help but think it is the only thing left that could be screwed up.

I am at a complete loss here and having to keep telling myself "It's only a car... built by man" but I can't help but think this has added a gray hair or three.

 

Switch gets 12 volts from Link #10 (40 amp) in underhood box. Enters switch connector on pin 6. Leaves switch toward low beam on pin 2. This goes to inside fuse box, fuses 9 & 10, both 10 amp. From those fuses it is a straight line to "dipped" or low beam. You should be able to measure at fuse 22 inside the truck, and get 12 volts when high beam is on (one side of fuse to ground). Make similar reading from ground to fuse 9 and fuse 10. If voltage there, switch is OK.

Could be connector c0041 that brings wire to the switch, pin 2 is low beam output. A blue / red wire.


If you want a work around for switch, to make low beams work until you can get another switch - remove high beam fuses 22 and 3. Remove low beam fuses 9 & 10. Measure to see which side of fuse 22 and 3 are "hot" when high beams should be on. Use short jumper to attach that to bulb side of fuses 9 & 10. You still have a 40 amp fuse upstream under the hood.