Wiring DRL Cheaply on pre-facelift D2
I have seen the post about a LR resistor pack that may be needed to be add to earlier model D2s to get the DRL function to work and some ECU programming that would turn this function on by a shop with the LR spec computer. I also, found in my research this tidbit of information about the "parking lights" as I have always referred to them on other vehicles, less the DRL in the headlight role. They are called "city lights" on the Discovery. The story goes that the houses are very close to the road in the UK, and when in town the headlights are too bright, so when you switch to "city lights" you get the DRL and the rest of the lights as normal, just not the headlights. Just what I read, take it or leave it.
I like running with DRL for safety, but really did not want all the other parking/marker lights on or have to turn them on all the time. I wanted the DRL function for cheap. I decided to just cut the power lead to the small bulb socket that goes in the same headlight housing as the main headlight bulb that is the DRL. I connected both L&R side bulb hot leads together and took the wire to the under hood fuse box. In testing, I found that if I touched the hot lead to the positive terminal of the battery the lights illuminated as I wanted, and I can have my DRL.
So, my question is in the under hood fuse box which fuse would be the best to piggy-back off of to get the lights to work whenever the ignition is in position 2 (running position), and is there a piggy-back fuse connector for the blade fuses that works well for this purpose that may give me a flat spade connector I could use to put my DRL wire on?
I like running with DRL for safety, but really did not want all the other parking/marker lights on or have to turn them on all the time. I wanted the DRL function for cheap. I decided to just cut the power lead to the small bulb socket that goes in the same headlight housing as the main headlight bulb that is the DRL. I connected both L&R side bulb hot leads together and took the wire to the under hood fuse box. In testing, I found that if I touched the hot lead to the positive terminal of the battery the lights illuminated as I wanted, and I can have my DRL.
So, my question is in the under hood fuse box which fuse would be the best to piggy-back off of to get the lights to work whenever the ignition is in position 2 (running position), and is there a piggy-back fuse connector for the blade fuses that works well for this purpose that may give me a flat spade connector I could use to put my DRL wire on?
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