Maybe, let me measure the amp draw first using my current set-up. I will of course measure it after as well.

The problem that is now confronting me is what Savanna said and you elaborated on, the A/C at idle or slow driving. I checked the RAVE and Savanna is correct, the parameters are only mph and ambient temp, no coolant temp which would make life easy. Thought: Using the adjustable fan control that includes variable speed operation might be an answer.

Like this:
Amazon.com: Flex-a-lite 31165 Variable Speed Control Module: Automotive

I can run a low-setting for regular slow and idle to always spin at a low percentage. I can kick in a higher percentage when the temp goes past 180 or whatever the best temp is. Another thought, I am using two fans. I can turn one on at idle or low speed, I can have them both on at over the 180 or whatever the magic number is.

--Mike

 

Dual fan setup will make it easier. Only if you can run them independently. Run one at 20% as soon as the vehicle is turned on, then test your ac temperature coming out the vents, with the ac system on hi. Also, check your pressures on the ac system with it running. Can remember what they should be offhand. If the pressures are hi, obviously, turn the percentage on the fan up. Relatively easy fixes so far.

 

Enough of this Electrical Engeneering stuff... Start enjoying yourself....

http://www.littleblackbox.co.za/index.html

 

Any update on this. ? Pretty excited to see the the outcome and how much cleaner the engine bay is going to look.

 

Unfortunately, my little project has been side tracked while I chase down my sudden increase in temperature. I changed out my water pump, T-Sat and radiator and now I am running about 15-20 degrees hotter. I have bled the system three times too. I am hoping I do not have a HG issue. Not loosing coolant, so I have no idea yet.

Now I do have one thing to report. Before I put the OEM fan back on I tried out my adjustable fan sensor switch and found there is way too much lag time at the radiator. Even set at 160, the switch does not enable until the engine is already crossing the 206 mark. I tested this over and over, so a new temp sensor location will be needed.

I will keep on this as time permits.

--Mike

 

In theory the heater hose and the throttle body hose get a steady supply of hot coolant. Might consider a "T", and insulate the line from block to "T".

 

Can you post a picture of the temp probe. ? Maybe I can help you find somewhere.

 

Gonna bring this one back from its coma. Any updates?

 

Will be watching with interest. BTW dig 07, spent my Saturday pulling (donor 420) and replacing (300TE) condenser fan set. Turned out they are same part number and mounts, etc. But a long day. Found at least half a gallon of dead bugs inside front fan cowl. And interesting fan relays with their own on-board fuse.

 

Ahhh, fun times. I actually spent a good for 2 hour searching for a ac leak on a 2010 c class on Wednesday. Turned out to be the seals where the high high and low lines meet at a junction. ( dont ask why the germans made it that way).

I have a pretty radical idea in the Mercedes world. Take a 1985 SL, rip out the engine, trans and rear end. In its place, drop in an E55 motor out of an 06 E Klasse and a corvette rear end. Basically convery it to an SLS without the doors. Redo the interior, lowered suspension and the finishing touch would be remove the convertible top completely. Make it a true roadster. Some european bumpers should finish it off nicely.