That is an option, but I am first trying to work it as an auxiliary booster. I will move on from there. Heat soak and tiny temp variation is the ultimate goal. I will be happy with 182-188. So I need the current inline set up to get above 180, I think less than that is no good. So can someone tell me if a 180 Chevy stat just opens at said temp or do they open partially before then full open at 180

 

I can't dump the stat unless I dump the mech pump also or my temps will never rise high enough to operate the electric set up

 

So if the pump only runs when hot, there won't be any flow through the heater core unless the temp is over 180. Using a mechanical pump with constant flow and a thermostat to divert flow into the radiator as needed you always have flow through the heater core.

 

With just the electric pump set up. It cycles variably, starting slowly with surges, then pumps faster as it nears the set temp. It provides momentary circulations to range the temps until it gets to the desired temp. so the engine would get to desired operating temp faster than mech pump. So it will work fine alone. The heater should operate just as quickly with the surges to operating temp. There is a fish tank video set up with explanation on you tube ewp115

 

Okay.. Sorted out the stat. Got a new 180 and put 1 tiny hole instead of the 2 1/8" ones.
Results - all driving conditions 180-184...I can live with that, a couple degrees warmer would be preferred but it's wintertime. Kill engine and wait 6 minutes, restart and temp is at 190-192ish. Not bad, but it's wintertime. That is where the pump will help out.
Now that my stat is set up properly, I will stick the ewp in first chance I get.

 

how do I go about blanking my mech. water pump and taking it out of the equation? I want to dump the pump, fan and stat. custom housing? I could just leave the wp, but it requires the use of a stat and that works against my electric set up. I am thinking since I do not need it, I do not need the extra possibility of seal failure either. any thoughts? also looking at a spare water pump...can I just go ghetto and cut the props off or is that going to make it unbalanced?

 

you could just remove the impeller from the stock water pump housing.

if i were so worried and i guess i'm not I still run a 190 T-stat. Why wouldn't you try a bigger pulley on your stock water pump and over speed the pump to flow more water.

I understand that will not help directly with your heat sink problem, but if your moving more water, operating at a lower temp and you condenser fan is working properly it shouldnt be an issue

 

Remove the propeller. You should be fine. Check out this Block pressure kit. Basically they take a water pump housing and weld it shut. You of course wouldn't do that. But just remove the propeller.

block.tester - Engine Block Leak Tester

 

Here is a better look at the water pump.

 

yes, i guess great minds think alike :")
You will need the shaft and bearing install to run the pulley for your accessories