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Electrical Gremlin ! Help!!

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Old 02-03-2007, 07:01 PM
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Default Electrical Gremlin ! Help!!

I have a 1998 Disco and about 10 days ago while driving down the highway the SRS light came on, the tach stopped working and then the speedo started going crazy before stopping to work. Then the car began to start to jerk some so I pulled over and turned her off. When I went to start it, all I got was a clicking sound so it told me that the alternator was bad. I had her towed to my mechanic who found that the alternator was in melt down. He also checked the wiring to make sure there was not a short somewhere and couldn't find anything so he put on a new alternator and I was off for a while. Exactly one week later I had the exact same problem so she gets towed back to the mechanic and we replace the alternator again and again check the "brain" and find nothing wrong. As I start to drive out of the shop the SRS light comes back on and the speedo goes crazy so we stop. I guess we need to start looking at the wiring. Anyone else have this problem in the past? Sure could use some suggestions.

Thanks
 
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Old 02-03-2007, 07:26 PM
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Default RE: Electrical Gremlin ! Help!!

Whaqt you are describing makes snce but not to have it happen 3 times in a row.
Have you tested the battery to make sure it is not shorted causeing the alternator to fail?
Mike
 
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Old 02-04-2007, 11:51 AM
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Default RE: Electrical Gremlin ! Help!!

Yes, After the first alternator failure I replaced the battery witha new one and also tested it again after the second failure.
 
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Old 02-06-2007, 09:50 PM
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Default RE: Electrical Gremlin ! Help!!

Well after lots of trial and error it turns out that it looks like the circuit on the computer brain which regulates the alternator is burned out. I do not wish to spend $1800 ona neew computer brain so we are going to try and wire a voltage regulator and bypass the brain for this function. I will keep you guys posted.
 
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Old 02-06-2007, 11:14 PM
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Default RE: Electrical Gremlin ! Help!!

You might want to check out this site, http://www.roverlandparts.com/index....TS&Category=62
Mike
 
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Old 02-07-2007, 03:15 PM
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Default RE: Electrical Gremlin ! Help!!

By all means do try and find a used ECU to save money, but DO NOT try wiring in a generic voltage regulator unless you want to risk a total electrical system melt-down, and end up with a Land Rover nowworth $500 forits used parts salvage value.

Geoman
www.eurotekapg.com

" Land Rover Hard Parts delivered to your door" --serving the do-it-yourself owner/enthusiast
 
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Old 09-28-2007, 08:56 AM
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Default RE: Electrical Gremlin ! Help!!

Hey guys, I am actually experiencing this same problem right now (9-27-2007) with my newly purchased 1998 Discovery. Any suggestions, I'm about 1,800 miles from home and could use some advice. At least help me think this through. My symptoms are the same as the first poster, but I have not replaced the alternator or battery as I have noticed some different things (and the battery discharge thing happened first time last night).

First, with my situation, the battery doesn't always discharge. It only seems to occur when the headlights are turned on. Even then, it doesn't always happen. The first time it happened where the battery actually discharged, and vehicle wouldn't start, I discovered a pretty corroded positive battery connection. After cleaning, it seemed run work fine even with the headlights on ...for about an hour. Then it started happening again. This time, instead of turning the vehicle off, I turned off the headlights and let it idle. After a couple minutes (maybe sooner) the tach started working fine. I let her idle for about 45 min. to charge the battery. After this time the battery had charged up fine and I took it for a short drive and it worked fine, even with the headlights on. I didn't have time to take for a longer drive as it was past midnight already.

Also, interestingly enough, when I bought the vehicle, the taillights/brakelights didn't work. The guy changed the switch and they worked again. Additionaly, when I had the episode where the speedo would ficker and the SRS light came on and batt discharged, while I was driving and I tapped the brake, the speedo needle would drop, then jump up. It also set a low voltage code, which I since cleared Harbor Freight Scanner, Yeah!). After cleaning the connections, the SRS light went out.

Here's another clue: For a time (before all this started happening), when I turned the headlight switch on, the dash lights wouldn't come on (or they would come on but go out after a few minutes), but I had no problems driving at night and the battery didn't discharge. I actaully drove across NV Hwy 50 "The Lonliest Highway" like this (WOW, damn glad it didn't didn't discharge there!).

Here's another clue: Initially after I bought this vehicle, the dash lights wouldn't come on when the headlights were turned on. That's also the same time I didn't have any problems driving at night, and battery didn't discharge. BUT, if I worked the switch back and fourth a few times, I could get the dash lights to come on with the headlights. Sometimes they would stay on, sometimes go out after a couple minutes. However, after doing this a few different nights, the dash lights seem more inclined to stay on. Driving with the dash lights on is when I noticed the battery discharging issue and the speedo/tach needles flickering.

As a side note: I have a 93 Cadillac Seville with an electronic IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster), that would act very much the same way. I took the IPC apart and laid all the circuit boards (there are about 6 housed in that cluster) out on a big board and went around with freeze spray and ID's a bad solder joint. Ultimately I had to send it in to GM for repair. However, after a yr later, it started doing similar things again and the tach would quit and the dash lights also flicker or don't work -- and I could get them to stay on if I worked the switch, just like is happening with the Rover. I also found out once, that if I drove the car with the IPC disconnected the battery would go flat after 1/2 hr. My buddy that works at the Caddilac dealership has helped me walk through this issue as it's not uncommon. Cadillac recognized this issues way back and came out with a special ground kit (basically a bracket from starter to engine block) to resolve instrument cluster issue. Secondly, they recommend changing the headlight switch. Now that this has come back, my buddy says the headlight switch is the thing to change. I haven't gotten around to doing this yet. But the symptoms are remarkably similar.

So, any suggestions? Things seem to point to a bad ground or headlight switch. IPC, or other electrical. I'm leaning towards replacing the headlight switch as a starting point, and doublecheck the ground and fuses. I'm in Ouray today and will head up to Grand Junction, CO and over to Denver on my way back to WI. We'll see how it goes. Help me think through this issue if you would. I still have to get home.

Thanks in advance,

Mark
 
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Old 09-28-2007, 09:26 AM
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Default RE: Electrical Gremlin ! Help!!

Mark,
Long stories and I don't get along, by the time I get from you dirty cables to the Cadillac I am lost.
If you want to call me with a very short version of your trucks issues, I would be glad to help.
303-862-7680
Colorado between 7am and 8 pm.
 
  #9  
Old 10-01-2007, 01:27 AM
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Default RE: Electrical Gremlin ! Help!!

My srs has started to come on recently but i have not experienced any of the other symptoms... although some times my back door locks won't respond to the key unlock or the front master lock button and sometimes they will! Do i need to do any preventive steps?? Oh yeah and occasionally my windows wont have power when i start up... but if i just turn the disco off and then on again it works . Is that ignition or electrical? Should I look into checking the power regulator in the "brain"??

THANKS AGAIN
 
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Old 10-01-2007, 09:45 PM
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Default RE: Electrical Gremlin ! Help!!

Ugh, that sounds hard to diagnose. I eventually found my fault (I think, it hasn't happened since) today. Get this, just before the header at the back of the passenger footwell a cable UNDER the heavy plastic cover was sliced and another nicked. I don't remember doing any work there either so I'm thinking it was the people who installed the car starter, the wiring for that is hideously ugly... next step is to get the install docs for that and clean it up and get it working again. Amazing what you can diagnose by removing fuses and checking the cold rail for voltage. So frustrating, but I may be able to help people in the future now with similar issues. I'm very glad it wasn't an expensive component like a BCU or Cluster. I do still apparently need a door actuator, but I'll voltage test that tomorrow once I get the footwells all back together.
 
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