It's called Planned obsolescence.

Please do a little research and then post regarding this issue.


Paper filters are rated on averages, percentages of efficiency (also known as beta ratios) and multiple passes, so a 10 micron rated paper filter (as advertised on the packaging) may be letting particles 50 microns and larger through. The medical grade stainless steel cloth that we use is consistent across the entire media surface and is rated at 35 microns, meaning nothing larger than 35 microns should pass through the material. The bottom line is we meet or exceed the filtration performance of OEM filters, eliminating any warranty issues.



MAK

 

[QUOTE=racerxnet;374104]It's called Planned obsolescence.

Please do a little research and then post regarding this issue.
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Cool but Cleaning it sure sounds fun!

 

So manufactures switched to spin on oil filters because they knew they would become obsolete.
Right.

The filters I use have a beta ratio of 2/20=6/20. 95% efficient at 20µ is good enough for me. And I don't have to drive 160,000 miles to break even on them.
But like I said, if you want the $170 filter on an early 60's technology engine, by all means use it.

 

The military gets their oil and air filters from the engine manufacture, so whatever they use is what the military uses.
My oldest son is a mechanic in the Army.
They change the oil once a year or every 5,000 miles, unless its in the field, then they just keep it running.

 

I've also noticed on every military base I've been to, every vehicle from Humvees to tanks has a pan under it. So my guess is they leak even worse than a Land Rover, so the oil's constantly getting cycled anyway.
As for the $170 oil filter, yeah maybe when I get rich it'll make sense but not for right now.

 

Let me get this right. I have seen this a lot but ppl are running diesel motor oil like 5w 40 in there gas engines? or is this for the diesel engines only?

 

Yes they are using them in the gas engines. Its in mine now. I was surprised at first too but it supposedly has better cleaning additives and keeps the material in suspension better thus allowing the filter to catch it better. Mine was not well maintained before I got it other than oil changes and I am assuming they used a pretty thin oil. I am using it to clean it out but will probably stay with it until winter time and switch to 10w40 during the coldest months.

 

Argh....can't seem to get the Purolator L40316 filter anywhere in Canada, and the US sources won't ship it up here, either (even Amazon!). If any Canucks know of local sources, please let me know, otherwise I'll need to ship it to a US address and get it across somehow.

BTW - I talked with the Purolator helpline, Bosch Canada, and the local Bosch distrubutors and no one could help me out.

 

Thanks Rob, I am in the same boat in that the previous owner wasn't the best when it came to maintenance. I have been running 10w 30 sj and had planed to run 10w 40 sj synblend oil during the summer but i prefer 5w 40HD ce Rotella oil because i run it in my kubota during the hot months. That filter looks amazing too.

 

How do you feel about the Lucas oil stabilizer. I want to run the 5w 40 or 15 w 40 but already purchased a but load of 5w 30 si motor oil. I find the starting up in the morning is a bit ragged with the lite weight oil so the 15w 40 cj oil soulds great. Lucas oil seems to help. or should i go ahead and run the 15w40 cj and use the 5w 30 sh in my other car?