Thank you guys!!.. The mechanic up the street from me said it would mess my engine up to put diesel all in there.. I never trusted his knowledge of these trucks hahaa

 

Just a quickie...thats what she said

Okay seriously though.

Just got into a 2001 P38 with a smidge over 149k miles. This oil thread applies to me too right?

What I'm gathering is...stay away from synthetic lol She already has a TINY oil leak. Like it doesn't even stain the floor so I really think it may have cured itself. Anyway...

I can follow this thread when making my future oil change decisions correct?


P.S. The disco is running smooth as hell and still trucking every day with out a glitch. She's got the 3 amigos but meh. Makes for a colorful display.

 

Yes same engine, rotella 15w40 summer and thinner if you are in a cold place in winter

The zddp is basicly a zinc additive that is no longer added to gas engine oil

Up to 2004 you still have an old school v8 in land rover

 

Many of us would completely disagree with the idea that you need to stay away from synthetic. My truck doesn't leak any more with synthetic, and it sounded so bad with Rotella 15w-40 I couldn't believe it. I run Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck and change it every 5000ish miles, which for me is ~6 months of driving. I've also started running Prolong, and the truck runs so smooth it's hard to tell it's running at idle.

Also, several of us, including an engineer from Wix, think it's a bad idea to run those giant filters because the oil relief valve is not set for our trucks.

Basically, this thread starts with questionable advice, and that's all anyone ever sees.

 

Another generalized statement. Some people do read through entire threads and the bypass valve issue/question is addressed.

Usually oil discussions unless addressing specific circumstances =
......

 

Rotella has a synthetic version, think its t6

 

Yep, T6 is synth and there is also the synthetic blend T5 which I think is the perfect compromise, but again that's very opinion based.

 

The issue with the T5 is it's 10w-30 (which some may not know is too thin for our trucks in non-winter temps).

Also, personally I'd want to see an virgin oil analysis on it before I used it to be sure the ZDDP is as at least high as the T6.

 

Anyone using the 15-40 in the Northeast?


I'm kind of torn between the 5-40 Full synthetic, the 10-40 blend and the 15-40 dino oil. I like the idea of a little thicker oil, because this thing seems to leak from every possible spot it can, but I am concerned about the cold start in weather that regularly gets into the 10-20F range in the morning.


I have been running a 5W-30 synthetic blend, but I'd like to move to the Rotella on my next oil change. Do these 4.6 motors do well with full synthetic? I seem to be constantly chasing slight leaks, and I do not want it to get worse. Does the heavier oil actually really help with leaks? I've owned countless cars in my 30 plus years of driving, and nothing leaks like this does.


I don't want to use too think an oil for this weather. I'd prefer something I can run year round. I'd be interested in hearing other peoples experiences using the three different oils, and what the pro's and cons are.

 

Synth will make it leak more, period. The 15w40 will leak less, yes. I've personally used 15w40 in temps into the early negatives with no issue, but there are guys here that start rattling with 15w40 around 30 degrees. It really depends on the truck.

Right now I'm running mostly Pennzoil 5w30 dino with a quart or so of T6 and a thing of ZDDP additive. I really only used the Pennzoil because I already had it and next change I'll probably go back to full Rotella, but which variation I do not know right now. Probably T5.

For you, I'd run the T5. That would keep oil pressure up in the summer while still being thin enough to lube your engine when it's cold in the winter.