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Engine & Drivetrain Swap - Things to do?

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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 07:03 PM
  #1  
KinverTurtle's Avatar
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From: New York State
Default Engine & Drivetrain Swap - Things to do?

Greetings, everyone.

I have a rolled 2000 Disco II with 148,452 miles. I plan to take out the engine, transmission, and (locking!) transfer case and plop it into into another Disco II, whose body and undercarriage is near-perfect (and who has no engine/drivetrain). I've pulled out engines, and swapped a transmission and stuff, so I have a pretty good idea of how to do it.

The question is, "What maintenance should I do while I'm putting it in?" I'm trying to make this list with value in mind: e.g., that I should do what I need to so I can avoid working on it (too much) for say, the next 20,000 miles, but not break the bank. Invest as little as possible but yet get the best returns.

Please help me add to my list:

Engine:
-Head gaskets
-Rear main seal
-Coolant hoses, water pump, t-stat, & reservoir
-Maybe a radiator
-Ignition cables & spark plugs
-Timing chain and gears
-Idler pullies, maybe a tensioner too.
-All fluids and filters

Transmission:
-Front pump seal
-Fluid and filter

Transfer case:
-Center locking cabling & shifter
-Front drive shaft
-Whatever seals you all recommend for this mileage
-Fluid

Please answer:
Do I need an oil pump?
Should I replace the bearings and/or clutches in the transmission?
What kind of seals should I replace in the transfer box?
Is anything on the list overkill?
What have I forgotten/didn't know I have to do?
Am I insane to even think this is a good idea? :P

-Thanks everyone! Maybe I'll put up some pics when I work on this!
 
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 07:17 PM
  #2  
Alex_M's Avatar
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From: Southwestern Virginia
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Good looking list so far. With that many miles, and if you're tearing down the engine anyway, I'd absolutely do the oil pump. I'd also do cam and lifters with that many miles. Throw a 4.6 cam in it if you dont want to go aftermarket, they can be found relatively cheap and will give a little improvement over the 4.0 cam.

Motor mounts and transmission mounts
Coil packs
Valve job since you're removing heads.
Check for valve train wear. Rocker arms and the lot. Replace anything that's starting to look worn.
If you have the budget room, I'd do bearings. If not then I wouldn't really worry about it, just nice to have done. You probably won't because that requires more machine work which is expensive.

That's all I can think of right now.

Edit: fan clutch and fan, or just go electric. Dusty has a nice electric fan setup. Not super cheap, but really nice and he seems to like it a lot.

And per your question, yes, I'd do all the seals you can get to at that mileage.
 

Last edited by Alex_M; Mar 18, 2015 at 07:22 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 08:02 PM
  #3  
OffroadFrance's Avatar
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From: Near Bordeaux, France
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Reading that task list looks like you're 'game for a laugh' anyways

So here goes:

T-case

Output shaft seals front and back.
Input seal from autobox.

Autobox

Rear output shaft seal

Diffs

Pinion bearing input seals front and rear diffs.

Front axle

Outboard shaft seals x2 R+L

Rear axle

Oil seal 'O' rings x2 R+L

To do the T-case input shaft seal and the autobox output shaft seal you will need to remove the t-case which unless you have the sump plate support jig and a suitable jack will take 2 people 'cos it weighs 55kgs or too f------g heavy for one person.

Good luck

PS if you are rebuilding the engine defo fit a new oil pump.

PPS you must be insane to have bought the truck anyways so don't worry too much just enjoy. Think of the achievement you will accomplish
 

Last edited by OffroadFrance; Mar 18, 2015 at 08:05 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 08:38 PM
  #4  
dusty1's Avatar
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From: dallas texas
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x2 on engine mounts, oil pump, gear box/t case out put seals
also....replace as many vacuum lines as you can while you can. I would do injector seals also
 
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 09:25 PM
  #5  
cybercop's Avatar
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,025
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From: North Georgia
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replace your freeze plugs while you have it out. It is a stupid very cheap thing to corrode and fail. TOTAL PITA to replace with the engine installed.

CHEAP Insurance!
 
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 11:43 AM
  #6  
KinverTurtle's Avatar
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: New York State
Default Revised list

I'll let you all know what happens when I actually start working on this over the summer.

My list now includes:
-Oil pump
-Engine/transmission mounts
-Coil packs
-Valve job at the machinist's
-Maybe bearings
-Transfer case output shaft seals (front and back)
-Transfer case front input seal
-Transmission rear seal
-Freeze plugs
-Misc. Vacuum lines
-Injector seals
-Check rocker arm, springs, etc.
-Sell my limbs to afford parts

I'm going to delay on: (since I can do it after the engine, etc. is in)
-Front/Rear differential & axle stuff
-Fan

Originally Posted by Alex_M
Throw a 4.6 cam in it if you dont want to go aftermarket, they can be found relatively cheap and will give a little improvement over the 4.0 cam.
I understand how a cam works and all, but what's the difference between the 4.0 and 4.6? I would expect problems with mistiming with the different cam.

Originally Posted by OffroadFrance
Reading that task list looks like you're 'game for a laugh' anyways
Aren't I though? :P

Originally Posted by OffroadFrance
To do the T-case input shaft seal and the autobox output shaft seal you will need to remove the t-case which unless you have the sump plate support jig and a suitable jack will take 2 people 'cos it weighs 55kgs or too f------g heavy for one person.
I've done it. And you're right, it's downright obnoxious.

Originally Posted by OffroadFrance
PPS you must be insane to have bought the truck anyways so don't worry too much just enjoy. Think of the achievement you will accomplish
Aren't we all? :P

Originally Posted by dusty1
also....replace as many vacuum lines as you can while you can. I would do injector seals also
Yes, everyone loves old leaky vacuum lines. Thank goodness this isn't SAI, I don't even want to tackle that junk.

Originally Posted by cybercop
replace your freeze plugs while you have it out. It is a stupid very cheap thing to corrode and fail. TOTAL PITA to replace with the engine installed.
Good call, that's my kind of thinking!
 
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 03:12 PM
  #7  
OffroadFrance's Avatar
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From: Near Bordeaux, France
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Originally Posted by KinverTurtle
I'll let you all know what happens when I actually start working on this over the summer.

My list now includes:
-Oil pump
-Engine/transmission mounts
-Coil packs
-Valve job at the machinist's
-Maybe bearings
-Transfer case output shaft seals (front and back)
-Transfer case front input seal
-Transmission rear seal
-Freeze plugs
-Misc. Vacuum lines
-Injector seals
-Check rocker arm, springs, etc.
-Sell my limbs to afford parts

I'm going to delay on: (since I can do it after the engine, etc. is in)
-Front/Rear differential & axle stuff
-Fan



I understand how a cam works and all, but what's the difference between the 4.0 and 4.6? I would expect problems with mistiming with the different cam.



Aren't I though? :P



I've done it. And you're right, it's downright obnoxious.



Aren't we all? :P



Yes, everyone loves old leaky vacuum lines. Thank goodness this isn't SAI, I don't even want to tackle that junk.



Good call, that's my kind of thinking!
Good luck KT just take it as it comes there's never any points for rushing the jobs. Your list is far longer than my D2 'to do' list but again there's no hurry so no worries. We do this for enjoyment ........... right
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 05:26 AM
  #8  
drowssap's Avatar
Baja
Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Boston Strong
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At this point you might as well rebuild it, the only your missing is turning the crank and replacing the cam bearings
 
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