thats messed up sava.

but i do want one like that for my living room.

 

Wow its not rocket science. If the motor is fine when its cold, and ticks when hot, and you have good oil pressure, Its a sleeve moving around. OK. Next get the sleeve to stop moving. bring the coolant temp down to like 175. Ticking stops. win. Big 2 hour ordeal. The science is, aluminum expands at a 12.2 coefficient, cast iron expands at 6.0. Gee of course the engine lets the sleeve go at 220. How tight can you make the sleeve without cracking the block when your cars also need to perform in -50 weather? Its a factory compromise easily corrected by changing the cooling system routing/temperature. I told you guys before how to fix you'r cars. Bet you still haven't done the inline mod.

 

i did the inline. my tick is the D1. my D2 needs new valley pan gaskets and hopefully not heads.

 

So run a 160 or 180 in the D1, a'int gonna need no heat on your island. I run a 180, and it was 183 today at 70mph with AC on and 93 outside on level ground (all we got around here).

 

OK I know this whole tick thing has got some folks in deep dispute and I've read a lot of material on the symptoms but somewhere along the way I lost track...so could someone please clarify...If the tick goes away above 1500 rpm are we still talkin liners dancin' here? This is my issue and I've only had it a week, soooo I'm thinking oil press issue in my case. 2003-200,000km, changes done every 5000km 10w40. I'm a mechanic for real...not just an internet one, I don't believe in Santa clause but I have been wrong before. Haha...thanks guys, I love the passion here, appreciate any insight! Andrew.

 

IMHO the general thought of tick going away at higher rpms is that it is indeed moving from one end of cylinder to the other, and as speed increases it can't keep up with the change in directions so much, and the length of the slip is reduced to the point it no longer makes contact with the fire ring of the head gasket. It is still moving, just not as long as at slower speeds. There is a post for pinning it. Oil filter and oil discussed in detail in tech sticky. If oil pump is cracked in multiple pieces that can tick, and grenade front cover, it is thought it will show up as oil pressure below spec. See RAVE shop manual general data pages.

 

I do run the 160 as per your advice last June.

The cooling system has been great so I was thinking of putting a hotter tstat in for better mileage.

 

Wow... Seems that folks are now starting to acknowledge that liners move in these late discovery motors more than any other...
How far we've come in the past 2 years.

 

I don’t know if anyone ever denied that if overheated the liner can move.
I just think that it has to be acknowledged that not every tick is caused by a loose liner.
If you look back to the old postings at one time "every disco problem" had to be fixed by replacing the block with one with TOP HAT LINERS.
That posters is no longer a member so it does not come up in every post having to do with a tick any more.
Ticks can be caused but many different things, worn cams, lifter, broken oil pump outer ring on a few occasions and yes slipped liners and worn bearing are among them.
But some times it is as simple as someone using the wrong weight oil, it is nice to give people a few things to diagnosis before you tell them they need an engine.

 

again not to mess up the thread but I feel strongly my tick is a lifter/camshaft issue and not a slipped liner. the tick is definitely coming off the plenum. while no real authority has seen the truck, i'm starting to think about the camshaft replacement that Brett (?) did.

warming up symptom is the same....sounds great for the first ten minutes. it does have varying degrees of loudness and it can subside at times to very faint during a journey.