Ai - please read https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...hlight=ticking also.

Slang - see attached from overhaul manual. Please mark parts with something - need to go back correctly or oil flow is worse..... and if tinkering with lifters themselves and push rods, poke in cardboard to keep in exact order.

 

Thanks Buzz. Great write up.

I will attempt this in a couple of months with some help.

 

don't worry. im not there yet....

 

Please get a cheap engine scanner and connect it to your rover and send us the running temps. You may benefit from lowering the temps of the engine as everyone suggests.
Or just buy the lower temp thermostat and simply put that in.
See if the knock is still there.

If there is not enough oil getting up into the engine -
I wonder if there is an assy problem?
Oil goes thru the block, thru a hole in the head gasket and thru the head and I think
goes thru the rocker bar.

If that was put in upside down..

yes, these have to go in correctly

I had replaced head gaskets on my 01 disco II and had soaked my rocker arm assemblies in mineral spirits to remove the varnish. When they dried, they became stiff and despite oiling them, they remained too tight. I disassembled and cleaned them, which freed them up.

My problem is that in originally looking at them, they did not appear to have a specific assembly requirement. Once I had them apart, I noticed that the rocker arms themselves have an oiler hole on one side of the inner ring that must be assembled so that they are closest to the bolt post on either side. The rod itself has two oiler holes in roughly the same position at each pair of rockers. These holes are slightly offset from centerline of the rod and I thought the correct installation was to put these holes below center and facing toward the intake side of the engine. My reasoning was that if I put the holes above centerline of the shaft rod, then oil would have to completely fill the rod before it would exit the holes and must constantly remain full in order for the rockers to be continually oiled. I also faced the holes toward the intake side because in the other direction or toward the plugs, they would be opposite the oiler holes on the rockers themselves.

I'm not so sure which way is correct and before I button it up, I want to be certain that I have the rocker arm assemblies installed correctly to avoid having to take it back down to that extent.

Has anyone ever disassembled the rockers arms and can you tell me whether I have them installed correctly? I can't seem to locate and exploded view of them anywhere to make the determination.

thanks

 

I have the same issue. A bad hot ticking noise. Recently I just acquired an longer drive to work which is great for my fuel guzzeling disco. But I noticed the tick has disappeared. I went from a 12 mile round trip to a 50 mile round trip. I'm confused. Maybe a temp thing?

 

Has anyone replace their camshaft bearings on a 4.6L V8

I found a few threads re camshafts mainly arguing about wear however it looks like mine melted when the expansion tank let go, when my wife was driving, causing the engine to overheat badly. The outer bearings seem OK but the center ones have picked up the bearing surface so getting the camshaft out was difficult. I have not found any info on replacing the bearings even in the Rave manual. I see Atlantic British sell a camshaft bearing set but not sure how you go about getting the old ones out and pressing in new ones. Can anyone help?

 

Sleeve is a rap rap rap noise. On the tinny side.
Very metallic.
Takes about 10 minutes of a short drive to get the sleeve loose.

If you have a rod bearing or Crank bearings, it is more of a thunk or a thud.

Drowsap has a very good point! Lower the engine temps and the sleeve stays put.
You can pin the liner too.

Engine not getting oil in the back does not make sense.
Oil is getting up to the rocker arms right?

You could pull your sump, clean out all the gunk and put in a new pickup screen.
Maybe that would help a bit?

 

there is no easy way to replace cam shaft bearing, pull the motor.
you will wish you had by the time your replace those bearing.

there is a special cam shaft removal/installation tool that is need, and somewhat need to be mastered.

 

Rebuilt with top hat liners.
All has gone well.
I know that if I had been on a tighter budget i would have considered this pinning approach but I pulled the engine and took the bare block into to LA Sleeve ($1900) and had them insert the top hat they then decked it. Heads, crank, were in good shape but did replace rings, Grant, Camshaft, Turners performance option, all bearings, ARP studs.Gaskets,,,,,, I had replaced the Oil pump prior to rebuild.
I all about $3300.00 plus tons a time.
All new or reman'd engines out there use Top hat/ Flanged liners. (except LR's)
Pinning still allows for some movement that will only increase with time. Thin wall Alum. now with a holes drilled through it, heat, pressure======, Tick

 

Just wanted to post about my experience with an engine knock(tick) when warm. I bought a 2002 disco, it had a small tick that i noticed when i purchased it, after putting my ear to it i noticed it sounded more like it was from the bottom end, as time went on it became increasingly more noticeable at stop lights and the like.I started to research what common problems it might be, here on this forum(you guys are great). I also started doing some further investigation into additives as i do use lucas in some of my other vehicles, i came accross a great thread on another forum about Zmax, and decided after much deliberation that i would give it a try. I started off by doing the oil change, shell rotella 15w40(taking advice from other users of this forum) and added a bottle of the Zmax to the oil and fuel system. I had to drive from NY to FL so the timing was just right, well along my journey down south the ticking persisted but started to change from a steady tick to an intermittent tick to no tick at all! by the time i had hit georgia i noticed at my next refuel that not only was the motor running quiet, but the tick was completely gone. I constantly still wonder if the Zmax had anything to do with it, but either way the motor has taken a turn for the better and runs so smooth now. I recommend anyone with a noisey engine to try the product and maybe we can start a thread(if one does not already exist on this forum) about any benefits this product may have given you.
Cheers!