I have acquired a 2002 P38 engine to swap into my 2003 D2.

I'm putting together a list of parts to order for putting it back.

Yes, it probably makes sense to replace the front and rear seals as well as the oil pump but I'm just going to do the bare minimum at this time.

Here is what I plan to order. Please let me know if I'm missing anything.

Upper intake manifold gasket
O-Ring for the coolant pipe running out of the engine toward the heater core
O-Ring for the coolant pipe running out of the engine toward the radiator
Set of Engine motor mounts (can you order just the bushings?)
Exhaust manifold gaskets
Gaskets for between the manifold and the exhaust pipe
Water pump gasket (I have a new water pump so might as well)

Thanks,

 

Replace the cruciform seals in the rear main cap.
Now is the time to do things while they are easy to get to...that you don't want to have to do once the engine is back in.
Work smarter, not harder.

 

If it was me

Camshaft and bearings - you need to pull the engine to do them
Bottom end bearings, con rod and mains

As far know everything else can be done with engine in place

 

Agree 100%. You never know about a used engine(unless you know about this one and it is really OK). Open up the pan and check it out. Bearings and a crank polish are not very expensive..... It is already an 18 yr old engine. I would do a full gasket service top to bottom too.

 

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I will take a second look the topics brought up.

Anything I'm missing such as gaskets, o-rings or such?

I'm not sure about the connection from the manifold to the exhaust down pipe. Are those studs or bolts?


The engine has 109K miles. A tree fell on the lift gate. I was able to take it for a good test drive with operating temperatures where they need to be. It ran great and the transmission worked as it should for all the gears.

Thanks for the help

 

The exhaust manifolds have 3 studs each where they connect to the exhaust pipes.
The studs, nuts, and washers for both sides all come together.
Start soaking them now from the top with penatrating oil.
The studs are prone to break when removing them, but they aren't hard to drill out if the manifold is off the engine/out of the engine bay.
It's also easier to work with them if you have the Y pipe loose or disconnected in front of the muffler, so soak those 2 nuts and studs with penatrating oil too.
It's really easy to spend money on these things as well, obviously, but I would seriously consider all the previously mentioned parts above.
As they are much easier to do when the engine is out.