From today's NY Daily News.......

very, very british. i lived there. i know....


British women strike up nearly naked poses in calendar to honor friend - NY Daily News

 

Umm...Nice!

But, seriously replace that red cable w/ a new one. That cable carries very high amperage and if not replaced it will get extremely hot due to broken strands arcing and will burn your truck to the ground. Don't take a chance.

 

great coors...which part is it.....help a brother out. and how's a philly boy call himself coors?

 

You can splice the 300 amp starter cable, one source would be a welding supply house, they make a metal cylinder that wires go in each end, and are secured with large allen screws. Rated for amps beyond what the starter pulls. 6 gauge to size 1/0, about $10. But I prefer new cable.

 

x2 your only going to corrosion problems with a spliced battery cable

 

Well, that would depend on how good an electrician you are. Believe it or not, there are splices and terminations with all sizes of wire to all type of machinery in all types of environments in all kinds of factories that carry power every day to make our muchies, fertilizer, detergent, and even engine oil. But yes, a poorly made splice will have more problems that a new wire. Should be able to buy a pre-made cable that is already terminated.

 

no, you are correct there are splices under the ocean. As you said it is all in the application, I was just think of all the battery cables I have seen that a filled with corrosion in the middle of the cable from no apperent reason

 

corrosion is bad here but if it was done right with the proper splice and greased and wrapped it should be fine. much better than what it is now...

id still rather just replace the cable if I could get my hand on one.

 

this is the D1 set from Tom. I have an email to him about it but i think he misunderstood me.

I haven't even tried to follow it back yet to see what I'm dealing with. So you can bash me for that.

As per Tom:

Kit includes:
A - Battery to Chassis Earth - 1 gauge
B - Battery to Body Earth - 4 gauge
C - Battery To Starter - 2 gauge
D - Alternator to engine compartment fuse box - 6 gauge*
E - Battery to engine compartment fuse box - 6 gauge*
F - Mil-spec positive terminal
G - Mil-spec negative terminal
Not shown, but included, starter to chassis earth (long enough to connect at battery earth point) - 2 gauge

*Made from heavy duty welding cable that allows higher amperage size for size than normal welding cable. Will support up to 200amp alternator with minimal volt drop.

Complete set $130 + $5 or $10 (depending on where you are) shipping USPS priority CONUS

Other cables #6-4/0 available by request. Specify length, bolt size and load requirements.

 

Hey Slang,
one other alternative that everyone else has overlooked is to fab new wiring to the affected components. I would do that before I would attempt to repair an existing one by splicing in that many damaged wires.

You can determine which items are affected and start with basic wire and contacts, These are pretty common crimp on ends that fit into the housing that secures them to the unit they connect to.

Make it a little long, do some improved wrap and clamping and you got a better end result than a butchered up repair.

But I do have experience in the Navy as an Aviaition Electrician, plus building and installing harnesses for Ga Tech at Lockheed on an Air Force Radar Trainer, plus being a Manufacturing Engineer for Wire Harnesses on both the MX and Cruise Missile programs for 12 years.