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Engine wiring burnt out on the highway

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  #51  
Old 09-27-2012 | 12:43 PM
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I would probably get them done Danny. I'm not saying I couldn't do 'em my self.....

i need to look at it closer.
 
  #52  
Old 09-27-2012 | 12:47 PM
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_So did it burn on the manifold or what?
 
  #53  
Old 09-27-2012 | 12:57 PM
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I also did some commercial power, control and audio like in major sound systems in large facilities. Crimps done properly are fine. Solder done properly is fine. Both are used even in NASA Aerospace. I was certified to NASA Solder Requirements and Navy and Air Force Mil-Spec Crimps as well.

Either done right is fine Any done poorly is just that Done Poorly.

If you solder Pre-tin each half. Form them into an u-shaped hook, engage the wires in opposing directions, close the hooks with a pair of needlenose, heat the junction until you see it flow, add a little more solder into the molten section while heating, remove the hot tip and the solder, allow to cool undisturbed. You can see the actual flow of the molten solder.

Use high quality heat shrink over the soldered joint. You can use more than one piece of heat shrink tubing increasing the diameter slightly if you need the added insulation. Use an overwrap if needed for additional protection.

With some effort, an electrical harness can be a well made piece of art. You are an artist. So do it well my son. Be one with the wire!
 
  #54  
Old 09-27-2012 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
Slang,

One of my first jobs was wiring industrial control centers. Basicaly a big steel box that you walked inside to work on, a little smaller than a C container. 35,000 - 45,000 feet of wire, terminals, connections, relays, lights, switches, etc. All planned out by some engineer. But final assembly and test was all me using their blue prints. I worked my way thru college (at Big Chicken Univ across the street from Lockheed), did not know very much except how to use a meter and solder. That was over 40 years ago, and as dumb as I was then (not that I'm much improved); you can do better.

But start by taking off both sides of the battery when working. I'd leave battery connected between work hours and float charged so ECU, BCM, and IDM don't forget each other.
Sava- Where was that?
 
  #55  
Old 09-27-2012 | 01:06 PM
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I have seen a nut and bolt used to splice power wires or the large lugs that use allen screws to secure the conductors in place.

Really large guage wires are typically crimped with hydraulic tools but you can use a center punch and a hammer.

You could get real cool and do a terminal board and your own wireways.
 
  #56  
Old 09-28-2012 | 03:43 PM
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Yes, you can improve with new, no doubt about it. You can get running with a patch, done well, so it is safe. And to let you know that the rest of the systems are OK before you spend more moola. In Slang's beachfront area, the tinned copper wire sold for marine applications will hold up even longer.

Main thing is that you saved a Disco from the insurance total loss write off and free trip to boneyard; plus Slang has warned other owners on a potential bullet to dodge. As for wiring, the Mercedes team in the early 90's designed wiring harness with insulation that would biodegrade, save the planet, etc. Problem is that it degrades in high underhood temps and insulation cracks and falls off the wires on a $90,000 car. Perhaps they went to the same design school with the Rover engineers.
 
  #57  
Old 09-29-2012 | 12:53 AM
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Good work.
Soldering them IS THE ONLY real way the wires will last.

Good job.

Heat shrink tubing should have been put on the wires - not tape..
Tape makes me nervous.

Cause the wire - when soldered have little prickles and those can go thru tape easy.
But not the heat shrink.

But, the job looks clean.

Now you need to put strain relief on the wiring bundle.
Use tie wraps and rubber coated wire hangers to keep the bundle from moving.

You did really good man. You did good.

Thanks for the pictures.
 
  #58  
Old 09-29-2012 | 01:33 PM
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Sava....you're always so gracious.

Yea Jfall...thanks for sticking around.

The large cable is not soldered tho. If you think it's good to go I'll heatshrink it and support it with the wire.
 
  #59  
Old 10-02-2012 | 07:59 AM
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..you know...i just bought that perfect shrinkwrap sleeve and realized I cannot use it.

the large wire was never cut through completely and he didn't want to sever the connection. so now I can't slip a sleeve on. it's ok for now but i'd sure like to fix it nice.
 
  #60  
Old 10-02-2012 | 08:18 AM
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is there some reason you refuse to buy a new battery cable?
 


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