Fall/Winter prep time
#1
Fall/Winter prep time
Hey guys.
Adding to my long list of to dos on the Disco some fall/winter prep stuff to make sure that I don't have any surprises.
I ordered some D2 wipers from Rock Auto for about $21 shipped (didn't need a new rear wiper, so that is just for the two front, plus shipping). Installed my seat heater buttons/button trim last month.
I bought some "Right Stuff" liquid gasket to glue my lower rubber windshield seal down to the glass, it is bulging out. I am wondering if I need to replace my cowl or not. It is cracked, but they all crack from what I read here. Since it is $267 for a new one, I am wondering if a) after the rubber is sealed down to the glass, the cowl cracks won't matter, b) the cowl's cracks have put it in the position of least resistance, and I should use the liquid gasket to seal up the cracks while leaving the cowl crooked, or c) try to straighten the cowl and then seal it.
Lastly, I read a lot about leaking sunroofs. I have read that you cannot access the drainage tubes without removing the headliner. I cannot, for the life of me, find any pictures of what these tubes look like or where they are. Even if I cannot see them with the headliner in place, can I access the end of them to run a bottle brush line to clear any clogs? I don't want the leaks to spring up because of plugged lines, necessitating a headliner removal. I have some minor sagging already, but I am planning on recovering the headliner next summer.
Are there any other fall/winter prep items you would recommend?
Adding to my long list of to dos on the Disco some fall/winter prep stuff to make sure that I don't have any surprises.
I ordered some D2 wipers from Rock Auto for about $21 shipped (didn't need a new rear wiper, so that is just for the two front, plus shipping). Installed my seat heater buttons/button trim last month.
I bought some "Right Stuff" liquid gasket to glue my lower rubber windshield seal down to the glass, it is bulging out. I am wondering if I need to replace my cowl or not. It is cracked, but they all crack from what I read here. Since it is $267 for a new one, I am wondering if a) after the rubber is sealed down to the glass, the cowl cracks won't matter, b) the cowl's cracks have put it in the position of least resistance, and I should use the liquid gasket to seal up the cracks while leaving the cowl crooked, or c) try to straighten the cowl and then seal it.
Lastly, I read a lot about leaking sunroofs. I have read that you cannot access the drainage tubes without removing the headliner. I cannot, for the life of me, find any pictures of what these tubes look like or where they are. Even if I cannot see them with the headliner in place, can I access the end of them to run a bottle brush line to clear any clogs? I don't want the leaks to spring up because of plugged lines, necessitating a headliner removal. I have some minor sagging already, but I am planning on recovering the headliner next summer.
Are there any other fall/winter prep items you would recommend?
Last edited by Joshman; 09-25-2012 at 01:21 PM.
#3
Well unspecific advice would be to:
viscocity oil change if your areas temps drop
check your tire tread wear, ice/snow in your area?
check for dry/loose/missing lines from washer pumps to jets and top off with anti-ice
check seals around doors, replace dryrotted ones or reseat ones that have popped out or ripped to keep the cold air out
check coolant, blower motor function and make sure you have heat before it gets cold
clean and lube up diff lock connections if equipped, make sure you can lock and/or get into lo incase you need to crawl out of a snow bank, wanna know it works still!
consider hi output headlamp bulb replacement to help with visibility
check the date on your battery and the terminal connections, old or rusty/loose? consider repalcing
or get free battery/alternator check at autozone/advance, dont wanna cold/hard start when the temps drop or get stuck out in a storm!
youre already replacing wipers... really not much else is needed!
viscocity oil change if your areas temps drop
check your tire tread wear, ice/snow in your area?
check for dry/loose/missing lines from washer pumps to jets and top off with anti-ice
check seals around doors, replace dryrotted ones or reseat ones that have popped out or ripped to keep the cold air out
check coolant, blower motor function and make sure you have heat before it gets cold
clean and lube up diff lock connections if equipped, make sure you can lock and/or get into lo incase you need to crawl out of a snow bank, wanna know it works still!
consider hi output headlamp bulb replacement to help with visibility
check the date on your battery and the terminal connections, old or rusty/loose? consider repalcing
or get free battery/alternator check at autozone/advance, dont wanna cold/hard start when the temps drop or get stuck out in a storm!
youre already replacing wipers... really not much else is needed!
#4
Do you know what Land Rover recommends to get ready for winter?
Nothing.
As long as it has been properly maintained there is nothing needed other than possibly switching to a 5w-40 motor oil.
What do I do to get ready for winter?
I will switch to a 5w-40 motor oil at my next oil change, I will put the winter wiper blades back on, check all fluid levels and top off my windshield washer solvent.
I use de-icer washer solvent year around.
I will also reduce my tire PSI by 5. (a softer tire runs hotter and a hot tire grips better in the ice and snow)
Nothing.
As long as it has been properly maintained there is nothing needed other than possibly switching to a 5w-40 motor oil.
What do I do to get ready for winter?
I will switch to a 5w-40 motor oil at my next oil change, I will put the winter wiper blades back on, check all fluid levels and top off my windshield washer solvent.
I use de-icer washer solvent year around.
I will also reduce my tire PSI by 5. (a softer tire runs hotter and a hot tire grips better in the ice and snow)
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