Filled up with high test and lost 3.9 mpg!!! Has anyone experienced this?
#31
#32
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I usually go with mid-grade gas and I get about 300-320 mpg per tank. I had a .65 discount at my usual gas station and decided to give the high test a try. I have lost major milage with this tank, I am at 230 miles with this tank and in need of a fill up. I know, I know... I should have been using high test the whole time. But what could cause this rather dramatic loss of milage? I have no codes showing and none come up when I scanned. The plugs and filter are within replacement intervals as are all fluids. I checked the oil for the "chocolate milk" color that would indicate coolant in the oil. I have noticed no changes in start-up or the way it runs hot or cold. There is the normal cold weather condensation at the tail pipe and it does not smell or have the color of coolant (clear). All four 02s have been changed within the past year (all at once). Could be the whatever measures the fuel level?? Just bad gas?? The only thing I have not changed is the wires but this truck started consuming more fuel the instant the high octane was in the tank. I fill up at a local grocery chain but I have never experienced anything like this!!!
#33
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Thanks for the info - I wasn't really complaining about using the premium gas for the land rover, but I did think it was interesting.
And EGR or not, it's still a low-output engine![Wink](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/smilies/Uh2vXQr.png)
I did want to mention one thing however. I was under the impression that thermal efficiency-wise, an engine is able to produce more power and become more efficient when implementing higher combustion temperatures (as this is almost always going to indicate more energy).
And EGR or not, it's still a low-output engine
![Wink](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/smilies/Uh2vXQr.png)
I did want to mention one thing however. I was under the impression that thermal efficiency-wise, an engine is able to produce more power and become more efficient when implementing higher combustion temperatures (as this is almost always going to indicate more energy).
its about rate of burn. high octane gas burns more slowly then low octane. but for a an engine with uber high compression it needs a slower longer burning fuel to make power longer in the combustion stroke of the engine making for a longer and more complete burn.
having a fast and quick burning fuel (87 octane) in an engine like the rover just burns fast and incomplete thus leaving more carbon to gum things up. also the hotter burn creates more heat which is the enemy to longevity in a daily driven vehicle.
ideally we could all use 110 race fuel and have super slow and cool burn rates and also that sweet sweet smell
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#34
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there is many different grade of octane fuel and i was wondering what you have been considering "mid grade?"
around here you get 87 minimum, 89, 91, 93, 95, and 105 at some places.
yes I'm am totally serious when i say "what is mid grade fuel"???
Last edited by yesmar; 03-07-2010 at 01:39 AM.
#35
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i know what you mean. if you are lucky enough to have a sunoco around mid grade is 93-95. there is one at the race track i used to race bikes at that served up 110. i would keep two 5gal jugs for fueling up the bike i used to have. a nitrous injected hayabusa
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#37
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Well I have run a bottle of Gumout and still have the same loss in milage. I am reluctant to run Seafoam or the like because a lot of folks get more problems after doing so. I still have no codes and really scratching my head here. I have thought about the possibility of a fuel filter ( I know it is in the tank ) but it does not seem like there is any problem with the fuel getting out of the tank! If i was experiencing any misfires wouldn't that throw a code?
You get what you pay for, switch to Shell premium and once you are on your second full tank of it you will notice a increase in MPG.
And then as it cleans your engine your MPG should continue to go up.
The premium gas at the grocery store is stale, stale gas does not burn worth a crap.
Mid-grade gas is a mixture of regular and premium, so they take and pump out 60% regular and 40% premium, thats why you hear the pump clicking as you pump it, it is switching between the 2 in the ground tanks.
So by using mid-grade from the grocery store you are getting regular gas mixed with bad premium.
Go to a real gas station and pay the extra 2 cents a gallon for good gas.
#38
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This is simple to fix, STOP BUYING GROCERY STORE GAS, simple.
You get what you pay for, switch to Shell premium and once you are on your second full tank of it you will notice a increase in MPG.
And then as it cleans your engine your MPG should continue to go up.
The premium gas at the grocery store is stale, stale gas does not burn worth a crap.
Mid-grade gas is a mixture of regular and premium, so they take and pump out 60% regular and 40% premium, thats why you hear the pump clicking as you pump it, it is switching between the 2 in the ground tanks.
So by using mid-grade from the grocery store you are getting regular gas mixed with bad premium.
Go to a real gas station and pay the extra 2 cents a gallon for good gas.
You get what you pay for, switch to Shell premium and once you are on your second full tank of it you will notice a increase in MPG.
And then as it cleans your engine your MPG should continue to go up.
The premium gas at the grocery store is stale, stale gas does not burn worth a crap.
Mid-grade gas is a mixture of regular and premium, so they take and pump out 60% regular and 40% premium, thats why you hear the pump clicking as you pump it, it is switching between the 2 in the ground tanks.
So by using mid-grade from the grocery store you are getting regular gas mixed with bad premium.
Go to a real gas station and pay the extra 2 cents a gallon for good gas.
Anyone have any ideas on the fuel filter or any other part of the delivery system? I would be seeing codes if I was experiencing misfires right?
#39
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Well I have run a bottle of Gumout and still have the same loss in milage. I am reluctant to run Seafoam or the like because a lot of folks get more problems after doing so. I still have no codes and really scratching my head here. I have thought about the possibility of a fuel filter ( I know it is in the tank ) but it does not seem like there is any problem with the fuel getting out of the tank! If i was experiencing any misfires wouldn't that throw a code?
I'd give it the Seafoam treatment, you may get some misfire codes, but they'll clear once you drive it for a bit and the misfires clear. Also give the Throttle body a good scrub. Running one bottle of fuel injector cleaner isn't going to do a whole lot to clean your system out. You'll need some heavier artillery.
#40
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Hey Spike, why don't you catch yourself on all the postings before you start typing? I am not going to recap it for you. I was really looking for some helpful insight, not your ideas on how people should spend "extra 2 cents".
Anyone have any ideas on the fuel filter or any other part of the delivery system? I would be seeing codes if I was experiencing misfires right?
Anyone have any ideas on the fuel filter or any other part of the delivery system? I would be seeing codes if I was experiencing misfires right?
![Wink](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/smilies/Uh2vXQr.png)