I think he’s talking about using Ether or Cold Start etc

 

Yes spray some starting fluid in the intake and see if it will at least sputter or attempt to start. If it does then that would certainly point toward a fuel related issue. Fuel Pump relay look good not a golden burnt looking mess like the P38's used to do with the relays.

 

Oh oh gotcha. Well it already kind of sputters. I might get a half a revolution and then it'll peter out every 2nd or 3rd attempt to crank it over.

Remind me again which relay it is? Yellow, engine bay, #1?

 

Have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? I tthink Oreilly has the kit to rent free.

 

I did, yep:

 

That's plenty of fuel pressure. The D2 is a pretty simple ECU, but if the CPS pulse is not there it will not file the injectors. My guess is you still have a CPS issue, are you sure you have the new one installed with the bushings in the correct place behind the sensor? Would it cold start consistently with the old sensor?

 

It's correct, yep, right down to the torque spec.

It would not start consistently, no. It's behaving the exact same as it did with the old sensor. After the gas station incident and limping home to our driveway, it wouldn't start at all before or after the CPS swap.

It's certainly grown progressively worse just in the span of two weeks. At first it was every other start would be rough while the others were smooth/normal (the fuel pressure test video was one such normal start). Then it worsened to every other start would be bad or not at all.

Driving after a rough start would feel smooth as glass some times, but almost die altogether at a stop light. That worsened to driving poorly all the time. Misfires codes for like every cylinder at its worst moment (the gas station).

 

Starting to sound like an intermittent ground or loose wiring problem. Maybe with the coil packs relocation (any splices)? What are the spark plug gaps?

When I used spark plugs that turned out to be counterfeit on my Honda, they only lasted 5000 miles and the gaps grew rapidly (misfires on one cylinder first). Something about using a cheap metal substitute (lead maybe) vs platinum. Not thinking the gaps are the problem, but large gaps could make ignition more difficult along with a grounding problem.

 

Coil pack was relocated about 4 years and 30K miles ago, so I'd be shocked if it was related to that, but I won't rule it out. I'm replacing the fuel pump tomorrow either way (it's OG, 205K miles) so will be able to rule that out either way. If it's not the fuel pump, then I'll have to start looking at some more fringe possibilities since all the heavy hitters are sorted already.

Not sure about the gaps either but they're NGKs from Atlantic British and pretty fresh.

The only electrical thing I did recently was Option B, but that ground is solid, and if it wasn't I'd be seeing the 3 amigos, which I haven't since making that repair.

 

Update:

Replaced fuel pump. No change, same no-start behavior.
Unplugged the O2 sensors, MAF and IACV. No change, same no-start behavior.

Also swapped out the fuel pump relay. Also no change. In key position 3, should the fuel pump be making any audible noises? It's not if so.

I feel like I'm out of ideas lol