ctk111, mine did the exact same thing you are describing. All I did was a transmission fluid and filter change. And my problems were solve. Its a simple operation and will take about an hour. Like the other guys mentioned as well, I would check the battery, check for codes, check for a bad switch or adjustment. Nothing was needed except new fluid and filter. It was the original fluid and it was smoked bad. Almost like crude oil. Anyways it was a cheap $40 before I though I was going to dump $1500 on a transmission.

 

Thanks for the advice, but at this point it's already at the shop and the diagnosis is it needs a new transmission. It's an independent Rover mechanic, so I'm going to give him the benefit of having run through what's been suggested. Next time I'll rent a scanner and check the codes myself before taking it somewhere. I didn't know this was possible and already had it at the shop by the time this was suggested.

Any suggestions on which tranny to go with? Options are a rebuilt or used 4.0, and a used 4.6. Should I have the drive shaft done at this time as well?

Thanks.

 

+1 one the transmission fluid & filter change. I had the M&S lights, blinking red light at the shift lever in the center console. Just look at the notes in the Sticky section on it. It is a little different from some others, but not hard at all. If the tranny fluid is really dark, like mine you may need to run it a little and change again as you do not get all the old fluid out, so a second change would give you a higher content of new/clean fluid.

If you are going with the tranny swap, I would go with the rebuild and replace the front drive shaft, but not with the factory replacement you want one that has u-joints you can lube. That is what the "greasable zerks" give you, a place to put the lube in as it dries out over time in that hot environment. The factory shaft does not have this. While they are down there, might as well get it done now. Read the posts on the front drive shaft so you will know what they should be doing to it.

 

Any suggestions on whether to buy a rebuilt or new driveshaft? I don't take the truck offroad. The mechanic also suggested the shaft you can lube. It's a little more expensive. I just don't want to pay for something I don't need. Thanks.

 

Just wanted to say thank you to everyone who has input into this forum. I found the solution to the blinking m and s light - replaced the battery which was at 12.5V and problem solved.

 

These forums are great. I have a new to me 2000 Disco and this past weekend the M and S lights and engine lights all lit up. I used to have to push the gear selector forward forcefully in order to start the truck.

Took me 5 min to fix problem, loosened the 2 10mm bolts holding the XYZ switch, quick adjustment, and retightened. The M S Engine lights went away and the truck works excellent again

 

OK here I go. Just fitted my 01 Disco with a new battery, old one was dying and car sluggish to start. Drove 150 miles, spent weekend away and then began to drive home. I had inadvertently left something on the mode button and it was flashing between sport and normal mode. I noticed this within a mile but by then transmission felt odd and M and S light on. Pulled into parking area and turned off. Car would then turn over but not start. Messed for a few mins and eventually car started. Drove 100 miles but had to stop for gas. Again difficult to start but eventually caught (M and S on). Drove home, stopped and car started. Left for 20 mins now wont start. No fault codes found.

Anybody any ideas out there?

 

You will have better luck by starting a new thread.
It sounds like your alternator is bad.

 

Had this problem, and after reading this thread I replaced my battery. Both the M and S lights stopped blinking and the transmission was back to normal. Transmission had been almost completely inactive before I changed my battery. Very smooth now!

Just wanted to thank all the people who posted in this forum. You saved me a lot of $ and worry. Thanks again,

 

Recently while driving my check engine ame on and noticed the engine was missing and upon acceleration the engine light flashes. I ran my obd scanner and the code informed mee that I had a miss fire on cylinder #2. So I changed the plug and replaced the wire. I reset the code but the check engine light came back on and still flashes but now upon heavy acceleration either in idle or moving the engine makes this loud " HHUMM" sound like a Bull Frog. Any one have any ideas?