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Flushing Radiator / Replaced Head Gaskets

Old Nov 5, 2010 | 07:31 PM
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Default Flushing Radiator / Replaced Head Gaskets

Cleaning up my engine after replacing head gaskets. The root of most overheating problems. Sorry to be so unbelieving in the past to the more season vets on the forum. New AB head gasket kit, heads cleaned - skim cut, water pump in and tight and a new AB hose kit ready to install. I was going to shove a hose in the radiator inlet / driver side and try shop vac any alumaseal and k-seal residue in the bottom of the radiator head before I put everything back together. Any flush recommendations or would these addivives pose any problems. Most was thrown up during the over heating wars but no damage found on block or sleeves - accually everything looked very good, change your oil regularly with moble1 or syn. oils. Cross hatching in sleeves still good and not detectable ring wear ridge at 120,000.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 08:07 PM
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I would first flush with plain water and then since the additives were used I would use a radiator flush.
Some have reported good results with vinegar but I dont know what strength you would mix it at.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 08:44 PM
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I like the three part BG flush, which you should be able to buy from a repair shop that uses BG product. It contains one concentrated flush, one bottle of additive for corrosion protection, and a bottle of sealant which remains in suspension until contact with air (leak).
 
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Spike555
Some have reported good results with vinegar but I dont know what strength you would mix it at.

You can get distilled white vinegar (already diluted) at Dollar General. I drained my radiator, flushed with water, plugged the bottom outlet and filled with vinegar. I let it sit for about 3 hours and drained it. Then poured thru another gallon of vinegar, flushed with a couple gallons of distilled water and refilled with coolant (Prestone 50/50). The vinegar works. There was a lot of white flaky crap that came out when I flushed it. My operating temp is now 10 degrees cooler.

Eric
 
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 08:47 AM
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Good idea Eric.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 02:07 PM
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Boiling Mad - New head gaskets, New Radiator, New Water Pump, New Hoses. Ran about two weeks w/ two tanks of gas. Started this temp gauge thing of jumping above mid level. Stopped and let it cool of a bit. Limped home at 35 mph for 4 miles and grabbed the Jeep and went to work. Next week I added a quart of Dex, a bottle of Watter wetter and air purged it the night before then took off 5 miles to the drug store for some Christmas present tags. On the way home at 50 mph - heater went cold on my hands and I looked down to see the temp guage climbing up off scale. I dove off the road to shut off the motor and started seeing the steam plume off the right corner of the bonnet. Popped it open to see the motor throwing up thru the plastic over flow tank. Worked my majic with a half a gallon of Dex and time to cool the motor down - made it home.

I finally got every thing fixed with that #$&%# SES light off and thought I had my rover back on the road then this. New some real help on this one.
 

Last edited by 458steve; Dec 23, 2010 at 02:46 PM.
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 04:23 PM
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what year Disco?
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 10:54 PM
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2000 4.0L No Sec Air - 140,000K orginal miles. Some 17Ft Boat pulling - minor stuff and mountain roads in the fall.

The fact that I got two weeks out of it, I do not think I slipped a sleeve but I feel I am getting some type of communication of cylinder compression back into the coolant system. System is getting gas bound and over pressurized - then pop, pop, fizz, fizz at the coolant fill cap.

Possible I did not get the head gaskets on right but I got the motor is coolant tight and not a drop of dex on the drive way until this event, maybe worth another shot - new head gaskets, exhaust gaskets and head bolts.
 

Last edited by 458steve; Dec 23, 2010 at 11:05 PM. Reason: Engine specs
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