So - I don't know the answer to your question. I haven't heard of a rotoflex completely failing, no matter the condition.

That said, after breaking down on the interstate a few times, I'm a big believer in preventative maintenance. The last thing I would want is the rotoflex falling apart while I'm travelling because unless I brought a spare or broke in a big city, I know there probly won't be one available for a few days.

And like I said, despite being a huge cheapskate, based on my previous experience I wouldn't run an aftermarket rotoflex.

 

Put your truck on an extreme incline and bleed it.


Let it run, heat on.


Squeeze as much coolant in it that it will take, and hopefully youll get all the air out.

 

With the installation of the "Tropical Thermostat" I have managed to bring the running temps down into the low 180's, even reaching 179 occasionally while coasting! Over 30 degrees difference!!!



Flushed the radiator and cleared out Walgreen's supply of Peak Global



Still with no AC Fan it will reach 195 while sitting in traffic with the AC running - I have a replacement fan on order

 

Went to tackle the driveshaft anddd... not happening

Bolts are on hella tight and I didn't purchase the driveshaft tool so I cannot reach them properly;
Lucky8 Propshaft nut tool ? Lucky 8 Parts and Accesories for Land Rovers

Is this a reasonable undertaking with regular tools & the specialty wrench, or best left to the shop?

Can anyone chime in on their experience replacing this and/or the rotoflex?

 

I replaced a driveshaft a week ago, it's pretty easy job, but hard on my back,! (cause I am getting old), just lift one front tire a little so you can rotate the shaft by turning the wheel, put transmission in N & T-case in neutral also, all I needed was a good socket & short extension for back side, (if too tight use a breaker bar on socket wrench to loosen bolts, for front side of shaft you also need a wrench to hold the bolt,,
I have replaced rotoflex like a year ago, pretty easy , again raise a back wheel & same process, but you will need a socket & a wrench to hold the bolt, when taking out rotoflex take a picture & pay attention to put new one exactly same way, there are little arrow's on rotoflex that show the direction of bolts & where to connect,( it's easy to put them in wrong way),,,
(As for that tool you mentioned, I have no idea what is it for , a simple socket & wrench will do the job,)

 

Mine were super tight too.
I chickened out when I pictured myself with one end of the driveshaft detached and the other end held on with stripped and seized bolts.
And then the shop had a hard time with it. I was glad it wasn't me laying under it but some young bucks with better tools and a lift.
8 bolts should be pretty cheap from any shop.

 

That is exactly the image I have in my head... plus the fact that the nuts are already worn thanks to Landrover Palm Beach replacing the driveshaft once before, somewhere around 50k under warranty

 

<p>I had the same issue. Turned out to be both tie rods. I replaced them an realigned with 1/8" toe out using a tape measure and she's been perfect since up to 90, at which point I thin any lifted D2 would get sketchy.</p><p><br></p><p><br> <br> </p>

 

With the installation of the Lucky 8 driveshaft and Rotoflex Coupling I am once again vibration free!!!

I had my local LR shop install the parts: C&H Auto Services - Winter Park, Florida

She now feels like a luxury vehicle again, I even found a nice LR4 trying to make friends in the parking lot at lunch