I tried searching on this but did not come up with much. My front fog lights stopped working. Both bulbs look good. I replaced the fuse and the switch. The light on the switch does not come on at all.

I just bought a multimeter tonight but I really don't know what to do with it. I also have a continuity tester if that helps. I'd appreciate any advice on the next step(s).

 

Here's the wiring diagram, looks like there is a relay in the underhood box and fuse 3 should be checked.

Also is a pix of top of the underhood box.

Now let's get that meter going. A digital volt meter will have a continuity scale (called Ohms) and a volt scale (AC alternating current - like inside the house) and (DC - direct current, like from a battery), there will also be an amp scale.

1. Put meter on "ohms" position, may be a symbol like an upside down horseshoe (omega). Short the test leads together and the rading should change form open loop to a very low fraction of 1. This lets you test for continuity, on certain devices, like an injector or a bulb, there will be a higher reading in ohms. In may places in the RAVE the ohm range for a part is specified.

2 Put meter to DC volts. Put black lead on (-) battery and (+) lead on positive battery teminal. Sould read 12.6 to 13.4 or so when truck is not running. Crank truck up, and that volatge should be up areound 13.8 to 14.4 volts.

3. Take black wire and touch it to a bare metal spot on the chassis or the engine (can be a bolt or screw). Touch red meter lead back to (+) battery. You should read 12 volts or more. That is because this is a negative ground vehicle, so any "hot" wire you touch with the meter red wire while touching "chassis" ground with teh black wire will give a reading.

4. Let's read. Open the fuse box under the hood. Put black lead on those black wires you see bolted down to that chassis ground point. Touch red lead to the one of the screws on one of the blocks that has a terminal at each end. It is a fuselink, a high current fuse that usually runs something big, or several things by one or more fuses here and under the dash. Should get 12 volts on each side. If it is blown, you won't get the 12 volts n one side. So you can check all of these fairly quickly.

On the smaller fuses, you will see a number, that is the amp rating of that fuse. There is a metal spot on each side of that number. Tuuch red meter lead there, toeach spot. Sould get 12 volts if the power is on to that circuit. Some power is switched by relays, etc.
You can alos test a fuse by pulling it out and using the ohm feature of the meter.

 

Thanks Buzz. It's all on my list for tomorrow.

 

Ok, can somebody tell me if I'm missing something here? The RAVE does not say much about the fuse boxes that I can find (could be missing it) and the user manual just says for relays you need to go to the dealer. Looks like I have some empty spots where relays should be?
Counting down from the top, I replaced two 30A fuse links 2 and 3 because the originals looks absolutely corroded. All the other fuses check out ok at 12v except the first 2 40A fuses which I understand to be for the heated windshield. I have not tried testing there with the heater on, engine running, etc.

 

it's in the portion "electrical library"

One note: where it says "glow plugs" it means "SAI" for V8 vehicles.

 

Thanks. I'm downloading the full manuals zip now as apparently I don't have the one that had the electrical library.

This really helps. I'll bet having the R12 fog lamps relay missing could have something to do with the fog lamps not working Scary thing is, somebody probably pulled these relays for a reason. Putting new ones in might just open up a world of more headaches but I'm determined to get this thing right.

 

FYI, the layout of fuses and relays is also molded into the top cover of the under hood fuse/relay box. I just picked up the entire fuse/ box with fuses used on ebay for $35 from one of our reputable LR forum contributor parts guys Marty, "Iamthedrillbit", on LR forums and Ebay as well. This is going in my spare parts box in the back of my D2.

I also had problems with the factory Aux lights, but mine were intermittent. Once I replaced the relay, no change. I then checked the connectors at the lights that were on the wires in the grill. (I know I should have checked them first) They were a little corroded, so cleaned them up and now they work better, but still intermittent at times. I have a set of new waterproof 2-wire 12V connectors here on my desk that I got off Amazon that I will be replacing both lights with soon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details

 

They could have just put it back in the wrong spot. I notice you have one in the ACE spot, do you have ACE?

 

Jafir you nailed it! I'm in a SE without ACE. I just moved that relay over one spot and my fog lights are working again

Now what is this SAI you mentioned? I don't have that relay either but I guess it really does not matter since everything is working now.

 

see attached from RAVE, if you have SAI this pump will be near firewall on passenger side. If you have the pump, it has an internal filter.