Try one other free remedy next.

A few years ago, I was chasing a LF bad sensor code. Years before that, I had the corresponding code for the RR sensor, and learned then that sensor codes are very often not due to bad sensors, but to bad connectors. I spliced the RR wires and all has been well since then. Lesson learned.

I tried the same thing with the LF connector after I checked continuity and resistance. The splice did not correct the fault. No bueno.

After scratching my head for a while, I thought the next remedy was going to be installing a new sensor with the looong wires intended to be run directly from the hub to the SLABS. But those wires come with bare ends.

After looking unsuccessfully in many places online for an illustration of the individual terminals (pins) for the SLABS "Molex" connectors, I decided to dig in and unplug a SLABS Molex to take a look. That didn't really help, so I reinstalled the Molex and put everything back together.

Then, lo and behold, there was no longer a fault and the code has not returned for what I think is now five years or so!

I have since read other examples where simply unplugging and reinstalling a plugged-in connector cures an electrical fault. Doing that is said to lightly "scrape" the metal surfaces, restoring connection. I call that removing "microcorrosion".

The first time doing something like this worked for me was -50 years ago.

All of a sudden, no power was getting to the starter on my '65 Mustang. The battery had a full charge, and was relatively new.

I checked every connection between the battery and the starter and all were good. All I did was remove the ring terminal from the high-amp post on the starter, scrape the surfaces a little with a screwdriver, and reconnect them. Did the trick.

 

hmmmm yeah maube I just hard solder them in and call it a day lol