I replaced the fuel pump with a new Bosch, under warranty. The gauge still reads high until about the last couple gallons then it adjusts to the level that turns on the fuel warning light.
I checked, cleaned the ground by the fuse box, the C01810 connector.

Any other suggestions on where to look? I cleaned all the connectors on the fuel pump. Should I be measuring the resistance at the pump?

Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

The D2's fuel gauge is not that accurate in general. After I top up I can go 60 miles before the needle reaches "full", 130 miles before the needle reaches "3/4" and 220 miles before it reaches "1/2". Then it drops quickly and the fuel warning light comes on at about 320 miles. Obviously Land Rover forgot to calibrate for the non-linear characteristics of the fuel tank sender. You can nothing do about it. It sounds like your gauge acts more extreme.

 

You check the RAVE for testing?

 

Good idea, I was looking at the electrical, but the regular RAVE has the vales.

Fuel gauge reading Tank volume litres (US Gallons) * Sender unit resistance
ohms Ω
FULL 95 (25) 15
3/4 71 (18.8) 36
1/2 48 (12.7) 64
1/4 24 (6.4) 110
RESERVE (fuel light ON) 11 (2.9) 158
EMPTY 0 (0) 245
*Tank volumes are approximate.

Full is 19 ohms
Empty is 245 ohms.

RAVE Electric
Fuel gauge
The fuel gauge is connected from pin C230-14 of the instrument pack to the fuel tank unit
on a GB wire. The fuel tank unit sends an earth input on a KB wire to pin C0230-13 on the
instrument pack. The fuel tank unit sender is of the variable resistance type and the fuel
gauge displays a value according to the input sent from the fuel tank unit sender.

Also from RAVE:
It is a damped action
gauge to prevent erroneous readings caused by fuel moving in the tank. The damping action is minimised when the ignition is switched on to give an accurate reading within 2.5 seconds.

I wonder if my fuel gauge is failing and overly damped?


Where should I be measuring the resistance from the fuel pump? The GB wire at the fuel pump or at the gauge? C230 is the connector behind the instrument cluster. Shouldn't the resistance at the cluster be the same as the at the pump? Which might identify my problem, if they are not.

 

Does anyone know how the OBD and torque software derives mpg? I was showing 25 mpg for the long term average. Obviously not correct, I normally get about 11 mpg for real. Also the gauge showed about 35% full and I put in 21.5 gallons. Which should reflect about 15% left. Not a huge difference, but shouldnt the light be on, with only a couple gallons left.

 

I think some of the Torque parameters do not apply to Discoverys. Maybe for later model vehicles, so I just ignore that stuff, especially calculated values.