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Fuel Pump replaced, now starts, immediately stalls

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Old Feb 2, 2025 | 12:19 PM
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Default Fuel Pump replaced, now starts, immediately stalls

A friend of mine loaned his 2003 D2 to a someone who returned it on fumes, essentially. He did not know until he tried to start it a few days later...no start. Busy with work, life, etc and not his main vehicle (only 66k miles) so he puts it off to the side. This was about 5 years ago. Oct 2024 - I replace battery, confirm crank, no start. Have him crank, 12V to pump, has good ground, no fuel pressure. I replace fuel pump. It starts, but runs about 1 second then stalls. Made sure inertia switch is reset. Fuses good, swapped known good fuel pump relay, no change. When key is in RUN position, there is 0 V at fuel pump connector. The wiring is of course good or else it wouldn't start at all. P1884. Don't see any signs of rodent damage to any wiring . From other threads, possible crankshaft position sensor. I just don't want to throw parts at it. My time to get involved is limited as I don't live in the area full time anymore.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2025 | 09:16 PM
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If it starts, maybe the CPS isn’t the biggest suspect? The fact that the car has sat for some years complicates things. Not a LR, but we had a vehicle at work some time ago with a faulty ignition switch. It would start and then die as soon as you released the ignition switch from start to run.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 09:07 AM
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Did you buy a cheap parts store pump or one from AB or other reputable retailer? My dad replaced his pump with a rock auto one and it was dead on arrival.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 10:45 AM
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'94 D1s do that if the alternator fails, maybe because of the tachometer signal. D2s have a different circuit for tachometer. But maybe get the alternator tested. Does the tach read when it starts?
 
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Old Feb 5, 2025 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Harvlr
If it starts, maybe the CPS isn’t the biggest suspect? The fact that the car has sat for some years complicates things. Not a LR, but we had a vehicle at work some time ago with a faulty ignition switch. It would start and then die as soon as you released the ignition switch from start to run.
That certainly is a possibility. I will have to test that. The sitting for 5 year thing certainly doesn't help. Thanks
 
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Old Feb 5, 2025 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Grum.man
Did you buy a cheap parts store pump or one from AB or other reputable retailer? My dad replaced his pump with a rock auto one and it was dead on arrival.
I had my friend order one from Rockauto, it is a Bosch. I don't think the pump itself is an issue because it fires up every time the key is turned, it just doesn't stay running when the key springs back to RUN, that's when the voltage cuts to the pump.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2025 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnZo
'94 D1s do that if the alternator fails, maybe because of the tachometer signal. D2s have a different circuit for tachometer. But maybe get the alternator tested. Does the tach read when it starts?
I didn't even pay attention. I may have him connect the battery and try to start it and let me know if it does a gauge sweep.
 
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