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Fully charged A/C blowing warm air

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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 02:13 AM
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Default Fully charged A/C blowing warm air

I'm starting a different thread on this issue separate from my recent "Flood-damaged Disco. Worth repairing?"

My flood damage Disco which is now up to par and running is blowing warm air. I got some type of a/c switch DTC fault code in my scanner and accidentally erased it and Hawkeye does not store fault codes. Only if found again, then it will show historical and then present. Is no longer showing on new scans.

On my first start, I heard what appear to be a broken serpentine belt zapping around sound coming from front cowl and proceeded to immediately shut down engine. I removed cowl cover to further investigate and it turned out to be water from A/C condenser fins being blown by electric fan into water radiator fins and it was pretty loud. It has stopped since.

I had done a fresh water hosing into water radiator fins and thru front bumper grille minutes earlier. I used a leaf blower afterwards to dry and blow out any leaves, mud silt, etc., I first guessed water was still trapped, but know i'm thinking condenser?

Also, it blows AC air mainly thru floor and rear of center console. Vent selector will not enable it to blow from top vents. I sprayed CRC electronic connectors cleaner/lubricant to all connectors/switches in engine and interior before this. No blown fuses either. Freon pressure is on the high side of blue (normal charged).

Any idea if this dual pressure switch, condenser related or both that is causing warm air? Or what else?
 

Last edited by disco524; Jul 30, 2010 at 02:16 AM. Reason: forgot to add
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 08:34 PM
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Is the a/c compressor coming on?
 
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Spike555
Is the a/c compressor coming on?
Yes. I even disconnected multiplug and plugged back in and compressor kicked in. Also ran manual diagnostics in front panel a/c control and got code 21/22 which is sunlight sensors (I ran test at night) will run again in daylight. Later today, I'll be checking on dual pressure s/w and all switches running along freon lines. Any idea where I should look for flap control once I take out front unit? Blower is blowing strong hot air thru bottom of center console and windshield.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 07:39 AM
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Are you sure you have 100% refrigerant in your lines? My A/C was blowing hot and I kept adding refrigerant and it would blow cold for a while then blow warm again even though the low side pressure was well over 40 psi. My left side would blow colder than my right side too so it was weird. I evacuated my lines and the refilled with R-134a and everything is fine, A/C is colder than it ever was. I guess your blend door actuator cold be shot too but trouble shooting that sounds like a bitch but getting the climate control unit out is probably half the battle.
 

Last edited by lipadj46; Jul 31, 2010 at 07:44 AM.
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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by lipadj46
Are you sure you have 100% refrigerant in your lines? My A/C was blowing hot and I kept adding refrigerant and it would blow cold for a while then blow warm again even though the low side pressure was well over 40 psi. My left side would blow colder than my right side too so it was weird. I evacuated my lines and the refilled with R-134a and everything is fine, A/C is colder than it ever was. I guess your blend door actuator cold be shot too but trouble shooting that sounds like a bitch but getting the climate control unit out is probably half the battle.
Just got cold AC!!

Tookout front brush guard, front grille to get to dual pressure s/w. Cleaned terminals, did heater matrix bypass and clean all blower s/w & sensors.

Problem now is distribution control as cable is nowhere to be found so I can at least move flaps manually.
 
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